I went two days in advance to settle in to the time difference and enjoy a holiday before the tour started. While the hotel and Machico is nice, I would suggest staying in Funchal and transfering the day of the tour. I took the public bus into Funchal and did a tour of the City with the University (2 hrs) which was amazing! It was a highlight of the tour for me. Funchal is a great City–old European architecture in the centre with beautiful churches and great squares. In terms of the island itself, I really enjoyed the diversity of the landscape that we saw on our hikes. The flowers were amazing and the food was really good (steak skewers and garlic bread made on local sweet potato bread in particular). Going the 2nd week in May was perfect temperature wise for me as it was in the high 60s low 70s!
The first hike was a rocky peninsula with great ocean views, wildflowers amongst the red rocks, and long grasses that blew with the wind. There were some flat sections but then a lot of ‘rock stairs’ that were tough in parts. We were lucky in that the beginning of the hike was overcast and then the sun came out. There is no shade so definately wear sun protection and a hat!
The second hike was along a levada which was nice in that it was flat. The path was flat with some stone sections and other parts were mud (which is very slippery when wet). The one side had rock garden plants growing in the rock edge and blue hydrangeas and daylilies on the edge and the other side was agricultural fields in the valley. Mid-way you start to climb up a gentle incline to reach the ocean trail. This trail had beautiful views of the ocean and was a more tropical setting. There were a few scattered waterfalls amongst the hike–one of which you go under–that were really peaceful and in the terms of the one you go under a great cool off feature! I found this hike easier than the first hike as there weren’t as many rock ‘stairs’ to climb up and down. The worst part was at the end we had to walk to the Town (another hr). At first it wasn’t bad, but then the slope of the street was too much for my knees (I’m 48 so this normally isn’t a problem).
The third hike myself and others didn’t do as our hike leader said it would be very hard and a harder slope (which others who did it said wasn’t the case–they said it was easier than the 2nd day hike but was very crowded with people and there were sheer drops which they didn’t like). Instead, the group of us that stayed spent the day in the Natural Lava Ponds (the hotel gives you a free pass) which was so enjoyable as the water was warm and the salt made my muscles feel great. We had a relaxing lunch overlooking the ocean, a few had massages, and I spent the rest of my time at the infinity pool, inside pool (heated), and sauna/spa. This hotel (Aqua Natural) was amazing!!!! And they gave us chocolate every night and a parting gift of apple jam that they made.
The fourth hike was again in sun for most of it. The beginning of the hike was in the shade, with the trees having a lot of moss and growing in all sorts of configurations. Then we walked for a long time in wide paths in a rather stunted ‘forest’. This part was really long for me as it was pretty much a straight path and the same sights. There were a few good viewing spots of the valley which was very pretty. There were a lot of steps on this hike so I did get tired and my legs got sore…at one point its a couple hundred to get to a road. We walked along a very open field near the end of the day, ascended a hill, to come to the Fanal Forest. The Fanal Forest was amazing as I loved the misty, forested views and got great photos. The trees are twisted with lots of moss. There are a lot of people here so it’s not a solo experience…and there are quite a few cows too.
We drove into Funchal for a day off. A group of us went to the two botanical gardens which I highly recommend. The municipal gardens have more botanical species, and a linear floral display that is great to see, it also has great views of the ocean and the City. Monte Palace Gardens is really amazing to see. It’s very big but there are winding paths through it. You can buy the ticket to the funicular on-line which saves 1 line-up–it goes fast though.
The final day we got up very early to watch the sunrise on Pico do Arieiro. I’m Canadian and it was freezing at the top–I had brought light gloves to wear (unfortunately my hat fell out of my bag in the bus…and the hoody wasn’t warm enough). The view is amazing–being above the clouds and seeing the sun rise with the mountain tops. The minute it rises it does get warm. There are great views up at the observation point.
We didn’t do the hike that is mentionned in the tour–there were independent hikers doing it. Instead, we hiked downward through a valley. It was a nice hike and there was a waterfall and river near the end to walk beside. The valley did get foggy at one point so that was cool.
Overall, the first 2 day hikes were my favourite in terms of view and I liked the fanal forest at the end of the fourth day hike, and the sunrise on the last day hike.
I would go back to Madeira again–the people are very friendly, the island is beautiful, and the food was great!
