The Five Stans of the Silk Road - Ashgabat to Almaty

The adventure begins in Ashgabat, the capital of Turkmenistan. As per Turkmen law, we arrange arrival transfers for everyone in the group. See the Joining Instructions in the Trip Notes for more details. There are no arranged activities today, as many flights arrive very late at night or early tomorrow morning.

Accommodation: Hotel Sport (or similar)

Following what for many people will have been a late night or early morning arrival, we have our welcome briefing at 11am and then begin our exploration of Ashgabat.

Ashgabat holds the record for the most white-marble buildings in the world. In the post-Soviet era, successive Turkmen leaders built these impressive buildings as a show of the country’s strength and they make for a surreal sight. Ashgabat has been described as Pyongyang meets Las Vegas, and you can see why.

We have a half-day tour of Ashgabat including Ertogrul Ghazi mosque, Independence Park, the Neutrality Arch, Constitution Monument, Alem Ferris Wheel, Magtymguly Monument, Halk Hakydasy Memorial Complex, and the Wedding Palace, which looks over the city from a hilltop.

Accommodation: Hotel Sport (or similar)

After breakfast, we head to Nisa, the capital of the former Persian Parthian Empire, which controlled much of what is now Iraq to Pakistan 2,000 years ago. The ruins here were declared a World Heritage site in 2007. After, we visit the National Museum of Turkmenistan, about a 20-minute drive away.

Mid-afternoon, we transfer (4hr 30min) into the Karakum Desert in a 4×4 convoy (the paved road is in poor condition) to a massive burning gas crater known as the Door to Hell in a remote part of the Darvaza region. We also visit a couple of sinkholes on our way. In the 1970s, Soviet engineers looking for natural gas deposits came across this area. Attempting to assess the gas, they set up a drill. The drill collapsed, exposing a big crater and seeping methane into the air. The engineers decided to set the gas alight believing it would burn off within a few weeks. More than 45 years later, it is still burning.

We stay in yurts very nearby and have a barbecue dinner. After, we can walk the few minutes back to the crater and see it burning by night – an unforgettable experience.

Accommodation: Darwaza Yurt Camp

After breakfast, we continue in 4x4s for around four hours through the desert to Dashoguz, the capital city of northern Turkmenistan’s Dashoguz Province and check into our hotel. The region around Dashoguz was part of the Silk Road trade routes that connected East and West.

In the afternoon, we visit Kunya-Urgench on the left bank of the Amu Daria River (approximately two hours’ drive from Dashoguz). Kunya-Urgench, also known as Old Urgench, was the capital of the Khorezm region, part of the Achaemenid Empire. The old town contains a series of monuments, mainly from the 11th to 16th centuries, including a mosque, the gates of a caravanserai, fortresses, mausoleums and a 195ft (60m) high minaret. The monuments testify to outstanding achievements in architecture and craftsmanship whose influence reached Iran and Afghanistan, and later the architecture of the Mogul Empire of 16th-century India.

Accommodation: Hotel Dashoguz (or similar)

After breakfast, we drive (about 20 minutes) to the Shavat border post and say goodbye to our Turkmen leader and cross into Uzbekistan where we meet our Uzbek leader and drive to Khiva, arriving early afternoon. We take a walking tour of the walled city, the Itchan Kala.

Often described as an open-air living museum, the Itchan Kala is Khiva’s perfectly restored old city and includes the coloured tiled base of the never completed Kalta Minar, the Kunya-Ark 12th century fortress (the former residence of the Khiva khans), and the beautiful mausoleum of Pakhlavan Makhmud (Khiva’s patron saint). Many wedding parties and pilgrims visit the tomb and drink the water from the well in the courtyard.

We also visit Islam Khoja minaret and madrasah, the Juma mosque, which is supported by 218 wooden carved columns, Tash Khauli palaces, and Allakuli Khan Madrassah. We also explore artisan workshops where we see technology behind the production of Khiva wool, silk carpets, embroidery, ceramics and wood inlay.

Accommodation: Malika Khorezm, Khiva (or similar)

Head into the arid plains of Khorezm after breakfast. These were once densely populated marshland, inhabited by Messagetae Scythians, nomadic horseback archers who fought to retain the land, even defeating Cyrus the Great, a Persian emperor in 529 BCE. We visit the 2000-year-old ruined city fortress of Toprak-Qala, which has the Sultan Vais Mountains acting as a dramatic backdrop. The settlement began in the first century BCE under Kushan patronage and was later devastated by Turkish raids that led to the depopulation of the town in the sixth century. There are still three large round towers and an impressive portion of the citadel remaining. We also visit Qizil-Qala, formerly an important oasis with an impressive number of remaining buildings, and Ayaz-Qala, an imposing hilltop fortress from the sixth century.

Accommodation: Malika Khorezm, Khiva (or similar)

We transfer (seven to eight hours) to Bukhara, one of the most ancient cities of the East. We drive through the Kyzylkum desert and enjoy photo stops in the desert and by the Amu Darya (Oxus) River.

Arriving in Bukhara, check into our hotel and have the evening free to relax after our long journey.

Accommodation: Sultan Hotel Bukhara/Hotel Kavsar (or similar)

The 2,000-year-old city of Bukhara has an old centre that evokes the many centuries of traders and travellers who’ve passed through here on their way between the Mediterranean and China. We spend the day exploring this fascinating city, including a visit to the historic Lyabi Khauz architectural complex, which has the oldest reflective pool in Central Asia.

We also visit: Chashma-Ayub Mausoleum, a sarcophagus over an ancient sacred spring; the Mausoleum of the Samanids, the family tomb of the rulers of Bukhara; Ark Citadel, the residence of Bukhara’s rulers since the first century CE; the Poi Kalyan Complex, home to the 157ft (48m) high Kalyan Minaret; the Kalyan Mosque, which has 288 domes covering galleries below; Nodir Divanbegi Madrasah; and Chor-Minor, a small mosque of an original form.

Accommodation: Sultan Hotel Bukhara/Hotel Kavsar (or similar)

This morning, uncover more Bukharan history and culture as we explore the Sitorai-Mohl-Hosa Palace, the summer palace of the emirs. The rooms are decorated with magnificent paintings, stucco, wood carvings and ganch. After lunch, we drive (four to five hours) to the other great Silk Road city, Samarkand. We break up the journey with a short stop at Gijduvan, where we visit the house of the famous dynasty of pottery masters, the Narzullaevs.

Accommodation: Malika Prime (or similar)

Possibly the most famous of the Silk Road cities, Samarkand has blue-tiled buildings that dazzle in the bright sun. Dating 2,500 years old and impacted by such figures as Alexander the Great, Genghis Khan and Tamerlane, it is home to one of the world’s great squares, Registan Square, surrounded on three sides by the madrassahs of Ulugh Beg, Sher-Dor and Tilya-Kori.

The city was the capital of the Tamerlane, and we spend the day visiting a number of Tamerlane-era sites, including the Gur-Emir Mausoleum, burial place of Tamerlane, his sons and his grandson, Ulughbek. The Ulugbek Observatory was built in 1420 by Tamerlane’s grandson who was not just a ruler but also a well-known astronomer.

We move to the oversized Bibi Khanum Mosque and Shakhi Zinda (the ‘Living King’ necropolis) where the mausoleums date to the 14th and 15th centuries. Our final visit is to the Siab Bazaar with its fresh and dried fruit and nuts and other local food produce, plus a paper factory. The exact order of visits may vary.

Accommodation: Malika Prime (or similar)

Drive to the Tajik border early this morning. We cross into Tajikistan, meet our local guide and transfer (20 minutes) to the town of Penjikent.

Our first stop is the World Heritage site of Sarazm, which dates back 5,500 years. In Penjikent, we enjoy a tour (three to four hours) that takes us to the Museum of Rudaki (Rudaki is considered by many to be the father of Persian poetry and he was born in Penjikent) and ancient Penjikent, ruins of a fifth-century Sogdian town founded, which was abandoned in the eighth century. We also explore the remains of houses, a citadel with Zoroastrian fire temples and a bazaar in the excavated ruins.

Accommodation: Panjakent Plaza Hotel (or similar)

Take a trip into the heart of the Fann Mountains. We drive (50mi/80km) to Seven Lakes (Haf Kul in Tajik) in the Shing Valley, taking a sometimes bumpy and narrow road. The high mineral content in the water gives the lakes an unusual colour. We have time to enjoy the mountains, with a walk to Hazorchashma Lake and a picnic lunch in the village of Nofin before we return to Penjikent.

Accommodation: Panjakent Plaza Hotel (or similar)

Leaving the Fann Mountains, head into the industrial and agricultural heartland around the city of Khujand (about four hours’ drive). En route, visit the town of Istravashan founded by the Persian king Kier in the sixth century, and visit the bazaar.

While Khujand, today, is not the most attractive of cities it has a complex history. Believed to be one of the oldest in Central Asia, it was attacked by Alexander the Great, Arab invaders and Genghis Khan, as well as being an important Silk Road stop. There are still traces of the glory days and we take a tour of the sites, including the Musuem of Archeology, Sheikh Maslikhiddin Mosque, the Payshanba bazaar and, if time, Arbob Palace, the Urumkhodjaev family country estate, a copy of the Russian tsarist palace of Peterhof.

Accommodation: Khudjand Delux Hotel (or similar)

Return to Uzbekistan via the border crossing at Andurkhan, where we say goodbye to our Tajik crew and re-join the Uzbeks.

The total driving time to Ferghana town is about five hours from Khujand, but we make several stops along the way. The first is at Kokand, which was the capital of the 19^th-century Kokand Khanate. We visit the Khudoyar-Khan Palace (1871) home to a museum, the Norbuta-Biy Madrassah and the Modarikhon Mausoleum.

From here, continue to the small village of Rishtan, home to potter dynasties and ceramics masters. We visit a ceramics studio and witness a demonstration of the craft before the opportunity to buy earthenware.

Our final stop is at Margilan, where we visit a silk factory and learn about the material that gave its name to the greatest trade route in history. Eventually, we arrive in Fergana town where we spend the night.

Accommodation: Hotel Asia Fergana (or similar)

Transfer to the Kyrgyz border this morning and say goodbye to our Uzbek leader. After border formalities at the Dustlik crossing, we meet our Kyrgyz leader and head into nearby Osh, the second-largest city in Kyrgyzstan. We visit the sacred Sulayman Mountain, a holy Muslim site (and burial place of the prophet Sulayman (Solomon) and the central point on the Silk Road. The walk to the top of Sulayman Mountain is paved with some steps and can be tiring in the heat but the views over the city and valley below, small museum and 15th-century church are worth the effort.

On the way to Jalal-Abad, we make a sightseeing stop at Uzgen. We take an excursion to an old minaret and mausoleums nearby and visit a rice bazaar. Uzgen has a history of over 2,000 years — it is claimed to be a site of numerous citadels built at various times since the first century BCE. It was an important centre of trade routes between the Fergana Valley and northern territories of Central Asia. Uzgen became a highly developed town in the Karakhanid’s epoch and developed into a large trading and handicrafts centre.

Accommodation: Guesthouse Goodnight (or similar)

Leave Jalal-Abad and transfer (approximately 1hr 30min) to Arslanbob Nature Reserve. The village of Arslanbob is in the mountains at around 5,250ft (1,600m) – though the top and bottom of the village vary considerably in altitude – and is surrounded by an ancient walnut forest believed to be the largest in the world.

We go for a walk and picnic lunch in the surrounding countryside. The walk takes around four hours (including lunch and stops) and requires walking shoes/boots. The pace is leisurely but if anyone prefers not to join, you are free to opt out.

After, we return (approximately 1hr 30min drive) to our guesthouse in Jalal-Abad.

Accommodation: Guesthouse Goodnight (or similar)

Leaving the gorges, we head towards the high pastures around Son Kul Lake (9,895ft/3,016m above sea level). The journey takes approximately nine hours, including some rough roads. A new road is under construction and is expected to shorten the journey from 2025, but this cannot be guaranteed.

The jewel in the Kyrgyz crown for natural beauty, here nomadic shepherds tend their flocks. Today, yurt camps have multiplied around the lake, but the people who look after them still raise their sheep and cattle on the jailoo (high mountain pastures).

We experience the nomad life with a stay in a yurt camp. There are now Western-style toilets and a ‘shower yurt’ with proper showers and wash basins. There is hot water when the generator is running (usually morning and evening) but it is not wholly reliable.

Accommodation: Yurt camp

Spend today soaking up the beauty of the landscape around Son Kul. There is the option to go on a 2hr to 2hr 30min walk to the nearby hills – the slopes are quite steep, and this may not be for everyone, but at the top are a few petroglyphs to admire.

Accommodation: Yurt camp

Our journey today first takes us to Kochkor, Kyrgyzstan’s most important centre for felt handicrafts. We visit a workshop and can participate in the manufacturing of national carpets.

From Kochkor, we travel through the central Tien Shan mountains, driving through picturesque canyons and gorges along the southern shores of Issyk-Kul, the second-largest salt lake in the world, measuring 43mi by 112mi (70km by 180km) and almost 2,300ft (700m) deep. Its name means Hot Lake and was given as it never freezes, even in the depths of winter. The surrounding area is a mixture of forest and meadow with a backdrop of towering mountains and glaciers.

We have an optional excursion (approximately US$100-US$120 per group) at Bokonbaev village to observe a traditional form of falconry found throughout Central Asia – hunting with eagles. Eagle hunting plays a key role in the nomadic lifestyle here and can also be seen during national competitions.

Accommodation: Yurt camp

This morning, we continue our journey to Karakol. We head first to Barskoon Gorge, known for high waterfalls and dense spruce forests and visited by Yuri Gagarin, the first man in space. We hike to a waterfall called Bowl of Manas (named after the Kyrgyz national hero). Next is Djety Oguz Gorge where the Seven Bulls and Broken Heart rocks formations can be seen. From Djety Oguz, we continue to Karakol. There are about 2hr 30min of driving in total today.

The atmosphere of Karakol town takes you a hundred years back and gives you an impression of Tsarist Russia. We enjoy a sightseeing tour of Karakol, taking in old Russian-style houses, a Russian Orthodox church dating to 1886, a wooden Dungan mosque (1899) made without the use of nails, and Karakol bazaar.

This evening, we enjoy a home-cooked meal at a Uygur or Dungan family home.

Accommodation: Amir Hotel (or similar)

Today we cross the Kyrgyz-Kazakh border and, after border procedures (which may take one to two hours), travel along the picturesque Karkara valley, where mountain flowers attract many beekeepers. We head towards Charyn River, where the dramatic erosion caused by the river has created an impressive landscape. We have some time to observe the beginning of Charyn and Moon Canyons from different viewpoints. After a short walk and some time for photographs, we continue towards the Black Canyon. There is time for a picnic lunch in the canyon (you can buy your picnic from a supermarket earlier in the day). After our visit we continue to Almaty with an expected arrival time of around 5pm. There are about six hours of driving today.

Accommodation: Kazzhol Hotel (or similar)

Almaty is a beautiful city with its backdrop of the Tien Shan mountains, and we have the whole day to explore. With leafy streets and a cafe culture, the former Kazakh capital has a distinctly European feel. We set off on a city tour after breakfast, visiting a number of sites, including Zhenkov Cathedral (Ascension Cathedral), made entirely of wood and without the use of nails, Panfilovs Park, home to the Piously-Voznesenskiy Orthodox Cathedral (1907), which was built without any nails, the Great Patriotic and Civil War monuments and eternal flame, and the Museum of National Instruments.

Accommodation: Kazzhol Hotel (or similar)

Our adventure comes to an end in Almaty after breakfast.