India Tiger Safari

Most Inspirational Moment

Seeing tigers, especially when the sightings were so hard-won. A pair of wild dogs following our jeep was also special and sitting underneath an Indian Roller preening herself in the sunshine and flashing her beautiful iridescent feathers made for an excellent photo-op.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Himanshu (Bagde) was just the best group leader. He was professional, charming and cheerful at all times and worked tirelessly to ensure our holiday went without a hitch. What he doesn't know about tigers and photographing them isn't worth knowing. He took us to the local village so that we could see the Diwali celebrations and we also visited the market in full swing which was an interesting experience. He looked after us and made sure we had the best experiences possible on our holiday.

Advice for Potential Travellers

Although this is classed as a "leisurely" holiday as you don't actually walk anywhere, it is full-on as every drive day starts before dawn and the jeep rides in the parks are extremely bumpy (not a trip for anyone with a bad back!). It was also cold early in the morning (November) so warm jackets were needed until the sun came up. There is downtime between morning and afternoon drives which we used to rest rather than have lunch as you get plenty of eat for bush breakfast. Lunch is Indian buffet-style at the lodges but there is the chance to go a la carte and order omelettes/fried eggs if preferred. Tipping is an art-form in India so a group kitty managed by the group leader is definitely the way to go, it made life so much easier. We changed money up at Nagpur airport after landing, you get fleeced on the exchange rate but there really isn't an opportunity to change up sterling after the airport as you don't hit a city until the very end of the holiday and, obviously, the rural villages don't have ATMs. Shops air-side at Delhi airport on the way home take rupees (contrary to what we had read) but as rupees are a restricted currency you need to change them up pre-security if you'd don't want to spend them. Prices air-side are typical of airports world-wide, not Indian prices. You need to carry your passport on all game drives as they are taken and checked against the register of who's in which jeep. Do not take a bag/handbag to the Taj Mahal as you have to put it through a security scanner and then leave it to go through the separate frisk queue which can take some time and you can't see where your bag has got to. Put your camera round your neck and your valuables securely in your pocket and you'll be able to bypass the scanner queue. You can take a bag to the Red Fort as it's checked manually rather than through scanners. The local people in small towns (and on game drives) will ask to be photographed with you. Most people were upfront and friendly about this so it really isn't a problem, just smile and go along with the experience. Some people were a little more sneaky, filming "surreptitiously" but as you'll never see their photos/videos ever again it doesn't matter. The train to Agra is an experience but one that shouldn't put anyone off this holiday. We were in 2nd-class sleeper berths, the bedding and (western-style) toilet were clean although the beds were rather hard. Some of the group slept, some didn't. We were grouped together so, apart from people passing by doing a double-take on seeing us, we weren't disturbed once the curtains around the bunks were closed. Luggage is stowed under the bottom bunk and a packed dinner was provided by the lodge to eat on the train as you really do not want to purchase food from the vendors at the station. After the peace of the countryside the train is full-on India so is a good addition to the holiday. All the hotels used were all of a good standard, no-one got ill on our trip, just a few rumblings due to innards getting used to curries at every meal. We were told when water was filtered and drinkable (the water at Bandhavgarh smells strongly of iron so bottled water is provided). Wine was expensive, soft drinks and beer were cheaper options.

Suggestions

Don't expect to see tigers so that when you do it's a bonus. Tigers can melt into the bush surprisingly easily for big animals. Remember to just relax and enjoy the beauty of the jungle and the other animals rather than focussing just on wanting a tiger/leopard (the leopards are more elusive than the tigers!) and have a good time.

Most Inspirational Moment

Seeing tigers, especially when the sightings were so hard-won. A pair of wild dogs following our jeep was also special and sitting underneath an Indian Roller preening herself in the sunshine and flashing her beautiful iridescent feathers made for an excellent photo-op.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Himanshu (Bagde) was just the best group leader. He was professional, charming and cheerful at all times and worked tirelessly to ensure our holiday went without a hitch. What he doesn't know about tigers and photographing them isn't worth knowing. He took us to the local village so that we could see the Diwali celebrations and we also visited the market in full swing which was an interesting experience. He looked after us and made sure we had the best experiences possible on our holiday.

Advice for Potential Travellers

Although this is classed as a "leisurely" holiday as you don't actually walk anywhere, it is full-on as every drive day starts before dawn and the jeep rides in the parks are extremely bumpy (not a trip for anyone with a bad back!). It was also cold early in the morning (November) so warm jackets were needed until the sun came up. There is downtime between morning and afternoon drives which we used to rest rather than have lunch as you get plenty of eat for bush breakfast. Lunch is Indian buffet-style at the lodges but there is the chance to go a la carte and order omelettes/fried eggs if preferred. Tipping is an art-form in India so a group kitty managed by the group leader is definitely the way to go, it made life so much easier. We changed money up at Nagpur airport after landing, you get fleeced on the exchange rate but there really isn't an opportunity to change up sterling after the airport as you don't hit a city until the very end of the holiday and, obviously, the rural villages don't have ATMs. Shops air-side at Delhi airport on the way home take rupees (contrary to what we had read) but as rupees are a restricted currency you need to change them up pre-security if you'd don't want to spend them. Prices air-side are typical of airports world-wide, not Indian prices. You need to carry your passport on all game drives as they are taken and checked against the register of who's in which jeep. Do not take a bag/handbag to the Taj Mahal as you have to put it through a security scanner and then leave it to go through the separate frisk queue which can take some time and you can't see where your bag has got to. Put your camera round your neck and your valuables securely in your pocket and you'll be able to bypass the scanner queue. You can take a bag to the Red Fort as it's checked manually rather than through scanners. The local people in small towns (and on game drives) will ask to be photographed with you. Most people were upfront and friendly about this so it really isn't a problem, just smile and go along with the experience. Some people were a little more sneaky, filming "surreptitiously" but as you'll never see their photos/videos ever again it doesn't matter. The train to Agra is an experience but one that shouldn't put anyone off this holiday. We were in 2nd-class sleeper berths, the bedding and (western-style) toilet were clean although the beds were rather hard. Some of the group slept, some didn't. We were grouped together so, apart from people passing by doing a double-take on seeing us, we weren't disturbed once the curtains around the bunks were closed. Luggage is stowed under the bottom bunk and a packed dinner was provided by the lodge to eat on the train as you really do not want to purchase food from the vendors at the station. After the peace of the countryside the train is full-on India so is a good addition to the holiday. All the hotels used were all of a good standard, no-one got ill on our trip, just a few rumblings due to innards getting used to curries at every meal. We were told when water was filtered and drinkable (the water at Bandhavgarh smells strongly of iron so bottled water is provided). Wine was expensive, soft drinks and beer were cheaper options.

Suggestions

Don't expect to see tigers so that when you do it's a bonus. Tigers can melt into the bush surprisingly easily for big animals. Remember to just relax and enjoy the beauty of the jungle and the other animals rather than focussing just on wanting a tiger/leopard (the leopards are more elusive than the tigers!) and have a good time.

Most Inspirational Moment

In Kanha National Park our jeep drew up to a crossroads to see a tiger walking along the road on the right. The driver turned the jeep so we were facing this big, male tiger. The tiger continued to walk along the road towards us and the driver reversed the jeep a short way, the tiger continued his walk towards us and we reversed again. This went on for 1km! We saw the tiger scent mark and casually stroll along. This was just an incredible encounter with only our jeep present. It was beyond our greatest expectation and when we saw how excited the driver and guide were after this experience we knew just how special it had been.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Our group leader was very well organised and efficient. He was always approachable and we were happy with the manner in which he organised the group briefings. He was friendly and easy to get along with.

Advice for Potential Travellers

Even when travelling in April I still required a thin fleece for the early morning game drives. You do not need to pack a lot as clothes dry so quickly in the heat. Remember to take a small bag for your camera, tissues etc on the game drives.

Suggestions

We should have been informed before the start of the trip that the arrangements in Nagpur were changed. We did not receive the notification and it was only by luck that we returned to the hotel for the rescheduled transfer to Pench. In Agra we would have preferred more time at the Taj Mahal. The trip prior to this to the marble shop did not interest us. Although the hotels in the National Park were of a good standard the hotel we stayed in on the last night in Delhi fell short. Initially we had planned to stay on in that hotel as our return flight was not until the following morning. We were so glad they could not accommodate us and we found a much better hotel at a very reasonable price near to the airport. We think that Exodus should use a higher standard hotel for the last night.

Most Inspirational Moment

There were many inspirational moments: seeing the tigers at close range; seeing so many tigers (our group saw 25 different tigers, at 28 sightings); visiting the Taj Mahal and the opportunity to experience a little of the Indian culture.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Himanshu is an outstanding tour leader. He is friendly, professional, efficient, calm, caring and really went “the extra mile” to meet the individual needs of everyone in our group. All of this he successfully did in a calm, professional and positive manner, nothing was too much trouble. His extensive knowledge of the tigers (their names, family history, behaviours etc.) was exceptional. His genuine enthusiasm and passion for the tigers and their preservation, inspired us and added greatly to the whole wildlife experience. Himanshu’s additional understanding of what makes for good wildlife photography was a real bonus.

Advice for Potential Travellers

Good things come to those who wait and to those who get up early! Collectively our group had 28 tiger sightings, the tigers when we encountered them were a sight to behold. Sometimes we had no tiger sightings for a few days, other times a few well camouflaged stripes sleeping in the grass, then we were treated to fabulous displays of a tigers walking on the road past the jeeps, going to the water hole, drinking and taking a bath … awesome!

Suggestions

Usually we had 2 game drives a day, a 5 hr safari in the morning (departing at 5am) and a 3 hr safari before sunset (departing around 3.30pm). In the mornings we were served tea/coffee before departure, then searched for tigers until around 9am. Tiger depending, the jeeps then went to a fenced-in area, for breakfast and a bathroom-stop. Breakfast was a ‘packed-lunch format’ served on a table cloth on the bonnet of the jeep. It was a mixture of western and Indian foods, great. The game drive then continued, after which we returned to the Safari Lodge. We were greeted by hotel staff with face cloths and a cool drink. Afternoons were then free to sit by the pool, sleep, purchase lunch or do whatever folk chose. After the evening safari dinner was usually served between 7.30pm and 8.30pm. The food at all of the Safari Lodges was varied and delicious. We used a number of different modes of transport. We travelled by taxis between the three National Parks, the taxis were comfortable and air-conditioned. The jeeps at the parks were great, bring a scarf or neck gaiter for the dust. The Sleeper Train was fun – just don’t expect to get much sleep! The standard of cleanliness and comfort on the train was better than we had expected, one night was perfect. The minibus was comfortable and air conditioned. All drivers were friendly and welcoming. Our local guides in Agra and Delhi were knowledgeable with good English. All in all this India Tiger Safari trip was an excellent experience, to be recommended.

Most Inspirational Moment

Loved the Sloth Bear appearing just before we left the park for the evening. A late and lovely surprise. Did the whole tree scratch just in front of us. Much to all our delight,3 out of four of our jeeps were there and able to enjoy the encounter. Loved the excitement after a tiger walked just behind our jeep and I realised I was shaking with the adrenaline buzz.. I had too big a lens on my camera but boy will I remember the moment.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Kryshna was helpful, knowledgeable and entertaining. He was very organised. Jet Airways folded whilst we were In India but there was no stress for us as the back up team had alternatives for us all in a couple of days. Kryshna liased with the office and all was sorted out.

Advice for Potential Travellers

It is all in the lap of the gods when it comes to sightings. We were very lucky although we were helped by the heat as they were all at the water holes. The jeep system has been criticised by others but I think it is good that the Park Authorities are trying to control numbers and tourist behaviour.

Suggestions

Enjoy. The sheer arrogance and power of a tiger is a sight to behold

Most Inspirational Moment

Has to be the 90 minutes we spent with a young male tiger, on game drive 15, it was incredible!! We were lucky enough to be first on the scene and because of this and due to it being in one of the smaller zones we didn’t have to go through the “jeep scum” that takes place in the bigger zones.

Thoughts on Group Leader

It seemed to us this is a pretty tricky trip to lead, given the pressure to ensure everyone has the “once in a life time” tiger experience they are hoping for and the added stress of the train journey. During our trip it was Tracey’s birthday and without asking Vijay organised a birthday cake and even bought her a present, which was very much appreciated. We thought he managed the subject of tips well and gave the group the option of allowing him to manage this which everyone agreed was the best option. Vijay provided the group a summary towards the end of the trip detailing how the tip money had been spent which was a little unnecessary but a nice touch. We both loved how excited he got when a tiger was spotted and he waited at the lodge entrance for all the jeeps to return and was always keen to hear how successful the drives had been. Overall, we would say Vijay was an excellent group leader and we both enjoyed his company.

Advice for Potential Travellers

Read Jackie’s review “its not all about the tigers” with interest as in reality its really difficult to avoid the trip from not being so. We can only suggest you remain patient and enjoy the wildlife that you do see. Out of 16 tigers we saw, our first sighting was on drive 8, with 4 being on drive 15 and 3 on the additional drive. The trip notes are pretty decent and offer any additional info you may need.

Suggestions

We are sure some of the fellow travellers would give the trip a 5, and with some fairly basic changes we would agree that the trip should rate a 5. This was the second time we have visited India with the aim of seeing tigers in the wild and this trip offers an excellent opportunity to do so at a very reasonable price. Compared with our previous experience, we came away with the opinion that everything was being done, that can be, to help tigers survive and we got the impression that numbers are on the rise which is fab news!! This was certainly reflected in the fact we our many more tigers this time than the last time we visited (should add this wasn’t with Exodus). In summary, we would certainly recommend the trip to others.

Most Inspirational Moment

Giving my bananas to the elephants. Seeing the Taj Mahal Seeing the 2 tiger cubs

Thoughts on Group Leader

Vijay organised everything very well and ensured we were all at the right place at the right time, though at times it was not easy to understand all he said. He took care of all the tipping, which made life much easier.

Advice for Potential Travellers

Plastic is not allowed in the parks, so take something else to protect your camera from the dust, which is worst in Bandhavgarh. You need the smaller 3 round pin plugs, but the European 2 round pin works everywhere. The lunches were all served buffet style at 500 rupees and were very similar to the evening meals. It was possible at Pench to order from the a la carte menu but the order took a long time, at Kanha it was buffet only, but at Bandhavgarh it was possible to get omelette and delicious chips. Take mosquito spray and anti histamine and hairdryer if needed.

Suggestions

We saw 3 glimpses of tigers in Pench and Kanha but it was not until the last day at Bandhavgarh (game drive 14) that we had a good sighting of 2 year old cubs. We did see other birds and animals but between the hours of 6-8am and 4.30-6.30pm the emphasis is all in the tigers as they sleep during the day. The trouble with this is that the drivers in Bandhavgarh are under so much pressure in the 3 days you are with them to get you a tiger sighting that they definitely do not keep to the 20kph speed limit and race around the park like rally drivers when they hear of a sighting. We reached nearly 80kph one evening in a terrifying 10 minute race to try and see a tiger! Also, elephants are used to flush out tigers and one time elephants were sent into an area of high grass where it was known there were 4 very young cubs. At Bandhavgarh the jeep allocations were not done evenly in the 3 zones. They had been booked months before, but we nearly ended up in the same zone 4 times.

Most Inspirational Moment

For me it was being eye ball to eyeball with a wild tiger walking towards me. Still get the shivers now, just thinking about it. For my wife, getting to touch and feed the working elephants as they passed our jeeps.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Krishna has great, fed us loads on info on Indian culture, and the wildlife. Kept our spirits up when the tigers wern't playing ball. and took care of the minor problems quickly. My wife is Type 1 diabetic and found the brunches a bit late for her sugar levels. Once we had mentioned this , Krishna sorted out some extras to eat before we left in the mornings.

Advice for Potential Travellers

Its cold on the first few hours of the morning. Take hats, gloves and a warm jackets. The one afternoon we didn't take waterproofs, we had a storm. So pack them every day. Yes its as dusty as they say, so be prepared for that. Getting small bank notes was an issue, buy some small items(sweets or water) in Delhi airport to try an get some smaller notes. Card machines at resorts not always working. Take cash. In two weeks we spent about £750, mainly on lunches, beers, snack and tips (and a couple of souviners). For info a beer was 350 rupees. We also tipped some of drivers and guides a bit more than suggested

Suggestions

As the group had bonded well, we had hoped for a few goodbye drinks on our last night. But being a Friday the hotel was dry. If we had been warned we would have brought a couple of beers earlier and put them in the fridge in our rooms.

Most Inspirational Moment

Seeing my first tiger in the wild of course, but also seeing a leopard albeit at a distance.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Krishna was great, very caring and went out his way to help if anyone had a problem.

Advice for Potential Travellers

Take some protein bars for the breakfasts, the morning drives are cold so take layers , also all the drives are dusty so take covers for cameras and something to cover your mouth and nose especially if you have any respiratory issues. Be prepared for long bumpy drives, and lots of sitting around just listening for any alarm calls and waiting , and be prepared to be disappointed, as you will not see Tigers on every drive, they are elusive, and you may only see glimpses of them through the jungle . Enjoy the rest of the wildlife especially some of the beautiful birds. Take plenty of tissues , and be prepared for the Indian style toilets . Also remember to just watch the tigers not always through a lenses.

Most Inspirational Moment

My first tiger sighting of course!

Thoughts on Group Leader

Our leader was Vijay and he was great. He worked so hard to get everyone to see a tiger, and he clearly loves his country and is eager to share his knowledge with the group.

Advice for Potential Travellers

I think anyone doing this tour needs to understand clearly how it works to avoid disappointment and frustration. So tiger safaris are not at all like African safaris - the tigers are solitary animals ( not like the lions that gather in prides) and while their numbers are increasing, most of them reside in what is called the core area of these reserves. The tourists (you and me) are not allowed in the core, so the truth is you are looking for a very finite number of tigers that are residing in the tourist area of the parks. Finding them is no easy task, but your drivers and guides in the parks will (if they are good, and not all of them are) work hard to find them for you. Secondly, your tour group will be broken up into groups of 4 for the game drives, and each group does not necessarily go to the same place. The jeeps are given proscribed zones and routes, so it is entirely possible that part of your tour group will see tigers and some may not. In our group, we had 2 people that didn’t see any tigers till about 2 days before the tour ended, and there were 6 that went about 2/3 of the way through the trip with no sightings. Needless to say, for those not seeing the tigers, it is hard to enjoy the time when the others are seeing them. But if you understand how this works in advance (and I did not think this was at all clearly spelled out in the tour literature) then you will be better prepared for it. No one can control the appearance of the tigers, so to some extent it is the luck of the draw, but it’s best to fully understand how the game drives work. And PS since most days you have breakfast in the reserves, you will get tired of hard boiled eggs and cheese sandwiches, so think about packing some protein bars to take along instead!

Suggestions

Remember to put your cameras down and just look at the tigers. They are magnificent but if you only see them through a lens then you’ve missed the point. It’s hard to do, and one of the reasons I want to do the tour again.