Walking the Island of Madeira

Madeira- Diverse and Beautiful Landscape

I went two days in advance to settle in to the time difference and enjoy a holiday before the tour started. While the hotel and Machico is nice, I would suggest staying in Funchal and transfering the day of the tour. I took the public bus into Funchal and did a tour of the City with the University (2 hrs) which was amazing! It was a highlight of the tour for me. Funchal is a great City–old European architecture in the centre with beautiful churches and great squares. In terms of the island itself, I really enjoyed the diversity of the landscape that we saw on our hikes. The flowers were amazing and the food was really good (steak skewers and garlic bread made on local sweet potato bread in particular). Going the 2nd week in May was perfect temperature wise for me as it was in the high 60s low 70s!

The first hike was a rocky peninsula with great ocean views, wildflowers amongst the red rocks, and long grasses that blew with the wind. There were some flat sections but then a lot of ‘rock stairs’ that were tough in parts. We were lucky in that the beginning of the hike was overcast and then the sun came out. There is no shade so definately wear sun protection and a hat!

The second hike was along a levada which was nice in that it was flat. The path was flat with some stone sections and other parts were mud (which is very slippery when wet). The one side had rock garden plants growing in the rock edge and blue hydrangeas and daylilies on the edge and the other side was agricultural fields in the valley. Mid-way you start to climb up a gentle incline to reach the ocean trail. This trail had beautiful views of the ocean and was a more tropical setting. There were a few scattered waterfalls amongst the hike–one of which you go under–that were really peaceful and in the terms of the one you go under a great cool off feature! I found this hike easier than the first hike as there weren’t as many rock ‘stairs’ to climb up and down. The worst part was at the end we had to walk to the Town (another hr). At first it wasn’t bad, but then the slope of the street was too much for my knees (I’m 48 so this normally isn’t a problem).

The third hike myself and others didn’t do as our hike leader said it would be very hard and a harder slope (which others who did it said wasn’t the case–they said it was easier than the 2nd day hike but was very crowded with people and there were sheer drops which they didn’t like). Instead, the group of us that stayed spent the day in the Natural Lava Ponds (the hotel gives you a free pass) which was so enjoyable as the water was warm and the salt made my muscles feel great. We had a relaxing lunch overlooking the ocean, a few had massages, and I spent the rest of my time at the infinity pool, inside pool (heated), and sauna/spa. This hotel (Aqua Natural) was amazing!!!! And they gave us chocolate every night and a parting gift of apple jam that they made.

The fourth hike was again in sun for most of it. The beginning of the hike was in the shade, with the trees having a lot of moss and growing in all sorts of configurations. Then we walked for a long time in wide paths in a rather stunted ‘forest’. This part was really long for me as it was pretty much a straight path and the same sights. There were a few good viewing spots of the valley which was very pretty. There were a lot of steps on this hike so I did get tired and my legs got sore…at one point its a couple hundred to get to a road. We walked along a very open field near the end of the day, ascended a hill, to come to the Fanal Forest. The Fanal Forest was amazing as I loved the misty, forested views and got great photos. The trees are twisted with lots of moss. There are a lot of people here so it’s not a solo experience…and there are quite a few cows too.

We drove into Funchal for a day off. A group of us went to the two botanical gardens which I highly recommend. The municipal gardens have more botanical species, and a linear floral display that is great to see, it also has great views of the ocean and the City. Monte Palace Gardens is really amazing to see. It’s very big but there are winding paths through it. You can buy the ticket to the funicular on-line which saves 1 line-up–it goes fast though.

The final day we got up very early to watch the sunrise on Pico do Arieiro. I’m Canadian and it was freezing at the top–I had brought light gloves to wear (unfortunately my hat fell out of my bag in the bus…and the hoody wasn’t warm enough). The view is amazing–being above the clouds and seeing the sun rise with the mountain tops. The minute it rises it does get warm. There are great views up at the observation point.

We didn’t do the hike that is mentionned in the tour–there were independent hikers doing it. Instead, we hiked downward through a valley. It was a nice hike and there was a waterfall and river near the end to walk beside. The valley did get foggy at one point so that was cool.

Overall, the first 2 day hikes were my favourite in terms of view and I liked the fanal forest at the end of the fourth day hike, and the sunrise on the last day hike.

I would go back to Madeira again–the people are very friendly, the island is beautiful, and the food was great!

Beautiful hikes with rewarding views!

Best way to spend a week in Madeira. The trip was exceptional with 5 great hikes and extraordinary views at each turn. It was a full bloom season and and that made every hike interesting. Hiking through lush green mountains with the sea always in sight- it was just beautiful. The trials along the Levadas (ancient water channels) were very interesting. Dip in the natural pools at Porto Moniz or in the hotel after the hikes were worth it. Aqua Natura Bay was the best stay and had great meals at the hotel. Till the last hike, everything worked out perfectly.
This is a great itinerary to explore Madeira -its culture and natural beauty of the Island.

Beautiful Madeira did not disappoint!

Madeira is one of the most beautiful islands I have ever seen. The hiking/walking was sometimes challenging, but the days were not extremely long. Flowers everywhere and scenery that is spectacular from above. The sunrise hike was chilly, but rewarding!

Awesome Hiking and Views

Fantastic trip with a great guide (Bruno) walking the isle of Madeira.

"Doing the Levada, not the Lambada!"

Glad I have seen Madeira and you will on this trip. The variety of walks is very good, although due to bad weather we could not do the scheduled walk on the final day, the one I was really looking forward to. Such is life and our excellent walk leader, Paulo, took us on another flat Levada walk instead. The rating is right in my opinion for the level of walks, having been on other Exodus walking holidays. I would say that outside of summer arriving on the the early Group Flight is not really worth it as there is not much to do in Machico in the afternoon except for the beach. The first hotel, Dom Pedro, is very tired and needs a refurb in all honesty. Breakfast coffee at the Dom Pedro and Pestana Casino is from a machine and awful, I was not the only one to make that observation. Paulo helped me to sort out a room lock issue at Aqua Natura Bay (the best of the three hotels), some had massages/treatments here and found them to be good. Breakfasts are ok at the hotels, basically as described in the trip notes. We had some pleasant meals out in Machico and Funchal. You can get what you need for a snack lunch in the supermarkets they take you to ahead of each walk. Having paid the single supplement, I did get decent double rooms which is not always the case.

Levadas and Views

Madeira is a beautiful island and the hikes were just the right length to get in some good exercise but still be able to enjoy going out and about on foot afterwards.

A fabulous trip

This holiday lived up to expectations! It was wonderful to see the whole island with varied walks and hotels and a really friendly group who gelled well from the outset. Bruno was an excellent guide who looked after us well and imparted much local knowledge as we passed through different terrain. The views on the coastal paths were spectacular, and the levada walks, especially the waterfalls one, were unique. We had to adapt due to a storm on the first day making the peninsula unsuitable, but Bruno quickly planned an alternative, and the rest of the week was dry and warm, with some days of sunshine, and some mist on occasion which added to the atmosphere.

Varied walks, knowledgeable guide, great overview of Madeira

We had a very enjoyable week in Madeira with our group of 14 and guide Nelio.
We thought the trip worked really well to be able to stay in 4 different locations across the week to really see all parts of Madeira and allow short transfers for each walk. We enjoyed all the walks and liked the variety – coast line, forest, levadas etc.

The biggest disappointment of the week however was not being able to do the main walk of the week on the final day (Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo) – due to a fire in the middle of the walk a few weeks previously, as well as bad weather.
But the alternative walk Nelio took us on (a levada from Fajã da Ovelha finishing with a steep descent on PR19 Caminho Real do Paul do Mar) was a real highlight and finished in the little town of Paul do Mar for beers in the sun and a refreshing swim in the sea.

The walk on day 4 at Queimadas Natural Park (walking along the Levada do Caldeirão Verde) was really interesting and beautiful, but we felt far too busy and quite dangerous. You walk along the narrow ledges of the levada with steep dropoffs, with two-way traffic so you have to keep leaning out over the rope barriers to let others pass. There have been incidents there, and it could do with either making it one-way, or certain times where people go in or come out, so it stops the 2-way traffic which the narrow ledges cannot accomodate and makes progress very slow.

One point that we also felt could improve the trip was the ability to buy/make packed lunches. The first day in Machino we all had to go to the supermarket to buy food for the following day. We all found this difficult as there was little options for easy picnic food. The rest of the week most of us just made a sandwich at breakfast to bring with us.
We thought it would make the trip a lot simpler if the hotels allowed guests to make a small packed lunch at breakfast, or alternatively provide a packed lunch service for a small fee. Apparently Exodus had mentioned to some others in our group that it would be possible to buy prepared packed lunches from hotels.
It was not always practical to go to a supermarket, and they often didnt have appropraite items.

We found all the hotels to be of good quality and enjoyed all our stays.
We loved the pool at Hotel Dom Pedro which we enjoyed on both afternoons. The spa at Hotel O Colmo and Hotel Aqua Natura Bay were great, and it was lovely to be able to use the large pool and facilites at the Pestana Casino for the final few days.
Our favourite hotel of the week however was the Hotel Aqua Natura Bay which was super clean, modern, great facilities, large bedrooms, excellent staff and great location just across the road from the natural pools. The included dinners here were fantastic and beautifully presented.

The transport for the week worked well and although the trip notes mentioned public transport, we had a private mini bus for the whole trip. Although be aware on the trip from Porto Moniz to Funchal, all luggage was stacked up in one big pile at the back of the minibus which made it cramped for the people at the back, and any bags at the bottom of the pile got squashed.

Great walking, Excellent and knowledgeable guide

A great introduction to walking in Madeira with a friendly and knowledgeable guide. All the distances were manageable and the routes were well assessed

Great trek, super guide, mixed hotels

This trip shows you the varied aspects of Madeira’s beauty.