Most Inspirational Moment
Where do I start ? Machu Picchu was busy with tourists as you would expect and a tad cloudy weather-wise but majestic and inspiring nonetheless. First sight of it from the clearing on the trek from Llactapata was one of those moments where you just stop and slowly mouth "Wow". Lake Titicaca was beautiful (loved the short sunset hike on the first evening) and I could easily have spent more time there than the itinerary allowed. However, beyond these famous two, I was particularly struck by the other Inca sites - Sacsaywaman, Ollytantambo, Moray, Maras and especially Pisac which covered a greater area than Machu Picchu and was all but deserted on the morning we arrived there. When you see the truly immense scale of the engineering involved you can only marvel at what the Inca achieved. Cuzco itself was a great starting point for the trip with everything within strolling distance from Plaza de Armas, in turn barely a five minute walk from our hotel. Even some of the transfers (usually my least favourite part of the trip) provided some memorable moments- in particular the climbs to each of Abra Malaga and Abra La Raya (would love to ride both) and the section from Santa Maria to Santa Teresa. And yet what arguably touched me most were two episodes in Llacon - the ruddy cheeked (courtesy of their high red blood cells) kindergarten class singing Happy Birthday in Quecha, Spanish & English and the women (in full local dress no less) thrashing the track-suited men at volleyball on the court in front of the local church at sunset. I can hear the laughter now.
Thoughts on Group Leader
Carlos was super in the time honoured fashion of Exodus leaders. Organised ,diligent, committed, amusing and keen to show us the best of Peru. He was ably backed up by his team of Diego (mechanic), Ronny (minibus driver) as well as Jorge, David, Alex and the legend that was Leonardo.
Advice for Potential Travellers
1. Don't underestimate the cold (as we did). The trip is almost entirely above 3,000m and sometimes over 4,000m. This means it gets cold (rather than cool) overnight so you need several layers each morning and from the moment the sun dips behind the hills in late afternoon. I envied the chap in our group who had the sense to bring a woolly hat, and at Abra La Raya a well placed road-side stall sold four long scarves to our group with stunning ease.
This advice applies to both regular as well as cycle clothing. Bring the thermals and long fingered gloves. On the descent from Abra Malaga, we even stopped to add a layer or two.
2. In contrast, in the middle of the day, it does get hot with intense sun at altitude so you need both a hat and plentiful sunscreen.
3. Mosquitos are an inevitable hazard on both the Amazon extension and the weekend at Llactapata / Machu Picchu so long sleeved tops and long trousers are recommended as are long socks so you can tuck your trousers in. Mosquitos appeared to very effective at attacking the space immediately above the top of our (short) socks.
4. You don't need walking boots for the trek - study shoes will suffice but trainers probably won't as you ascent 1,000m and descent slightly more.
5. Altitude takes a day or two to become accustomed to and you do notice the difference in oxygen levels but everyone seemed to cope ok, and, with next to no climbing whilst cycling it wasn't really an issue on the bike.
6. Finally invest in a pair of ear plugs as one of the disadvantages of centrally located hotels in Cuzco and Puno is noise including fireworks at any time of the night.
7. Big meals and altitude. We ate very well indeed on this trip. Carlos' recommendations in Cuzco - Greens, Fallen Angel and Uchu were all excellent and we can also recommend Greenpoint Café in the Las Blas quarter. Along the Sacred Valley the meals were good too particularly Indio Feliz in Aguas Calientes. Allied to a decent breakfast and hearty lunches, this added up to hefty food consumption which didn't sit all too comfortably with trying to sleep at altitude. But this didn't stop us indulging in cerviche, alpaca, trout, and even the odd guinea pig washed down with a Pisco Sour or two.