Wild South Africa: Journalist Cindy Burgess Says Yes to Elephants, Heights and Mopane Worms
The plate in front of me has a pile of what look like fat, black grubs. They’re Mopane worms—cooked, thankfully—a staple protein in southern Africa for generations and special feature of our farewell dinner in Cape Town.
“Don’t mind the worm’s head,” jokes our Exodus guide Marco. “Just chow it.”
I swallow my fear before spearing one with a fork and popping it in my mouth. It’s chewy and earthy, but surprisingly tasty!
I’m about as far from my comfort zone as I am from Addo Elephant National Park, where our 500mi (800km) journey along the Garden Route to Cape Town began two weeks earlier. There, our newly met group of 11 travelers eagerly climbed into safari trucks for a taste of African wildlife and a conservation success story.
The park was established in 1931 to protect the 11 Addo elephants remaining after centuries of hunting. Today, there are more than 600, including one that plodded along the dirt road towards the back of our open-sided vehicle.
“Stay still,” instructed our guide Taz. I froze as the elephant’s head loomed large in the rear window frame—so close the couple in the back seat could kiss it—before it passed peacefully alongside us. As I let out my breath, Taz explained that animals see vehicles as one solid object, and if you stay within it, you’re fine.
I welcomed our “moving rock” status as we ventured past grazing giraffes and zebras, Cape lions and hippos lounging in the sun, and more species of antelope than you can shake a rainstick at. Later, seated around the wood-burning fires of a traditional braai or South African barbecue, we recounted our brush with danger over grilled meats and wine.
Our group bond grew as we traveled the dramatically diverse landscapes of the Garden Route, enriched by Marco’s “Ask Me Anything” sessions about South Africa. We started amid the steep-sided, forested mountains of Tsitsikamma, where we hiked along the rugged coastline to several bouncy suspension bridges over the blue-green sea (did I mention I’m afraid of heights?).
Then it was on to the semi-arid plateau around Oudtshoorn, where wide-open fields of fynbos (shrubland) and ostrich farms led us to the spectacular stalactites and stalagmites of the Cango Caves, a 450m-year-old geological wonder.
This contrasted with the seemingly endless rows of cultivated grape vines in the hilly terrain around Stellenbosch, the heart of South Africa’s much-celebrated wine country.
Here, we visited the sprawling, whitewashed Lanzerac Wine Estate, established in 1692 and home of the world’s first bottled Pinotage. As we sat around a long wooden table savoring a selection of six wines, we may or may not have gotten a little tipsy!
Our road trip ended in Cape Town, where we took a white-knuckle (heights again!) cable car ride to the summit of the iconic, flat-topped Table Mountain. As I took in the sweeping views of the capital city far below, I reflected on the sheer diversity of South Africa—in flora and fauna, geography, race and culture—and the many new sights, sounds, and tastes we had experienced.
Which brings me back to our farewell dinner. I tried several other authentic South African experiences that night: juicy bites of kudu and springbok, the sour fermented beer known as Umqombothi (it’s an acquired taste), even playing the marimba with the band. Our celebration culminated with a raucous conga line through the restaurant, laughing and singing to an African rendition of “The Roof is on Fire.”
If life begins at the end of your comfort zone, as the saying goes, I’m definitely living my best one.
Watch Cindy’s Video From the Trip
If Cindy’s South African adventure has inspired you to step beyond your own comfort zone, explore our Cape Town & the Garden Route trip or browse all our South Africa adventures.
