Cycle Madagascar

Our adventure starts in Antananarivo, which is also known as Tana. There is a group meeting and briefing in the evening followed by an optional group dinner in the hotel for those who wish to join.

Accommodation: Au Bois Vert Lodge (or similar)

Leaving the hotel after breakfast, we transfer out of the busy city to Lemurs’ Park to encounter these primates endemic to Madagascar. It is a private park with a few lemur species living freely in a forested area. After our visit, we cycle through scenic farmland with plenty of paddy fields. After lunch in Arivonimamo, we transfer through a highland region to the top of a mountain pass before continuing the ride downhill to Miarinarivo, the capital of the Itasy, a region known for volcanic activity. The road levels out and the following 20mi (32km) to Ampefy offer reaching views and are a real joy to ride. In Ampefy, the lakeside hotel is our base for the next two nights.

Accommodation: Hotel Kavitaha (or similar)

We start today by cycling to the geysers of Analavory. These limestone mounds are similar to geysers in Utah and Nevada; volcanic activity encourages bursts of warm water to cascade down the bright yellow stone and create a series of pools, often used as a swim spot by local people thanks to the supposed healing powers of the water. The ride starts on a decent road but the 10mi (16km) route out and back to the geysers is along a bumpy dirt track, linking fascinating rural villages. Rejoining the new tar road, we head back towards Ampefy; before reaching the hotel, we take a small detour to the Liliha waterfalls, a dramatic series of cascades that provide a perfect way to refresh near the end of a full day of cycling. This stretch is also on dirt road.

Accommodation: Hotel Kavitaha (or similar)

Although relatively short, today’s ride is fairly challenging with varied terrain. We cycle the first 12.5mi (20km) to Soavinandriana through scenic landscape with some hilly sections, including a steady 2.5mi (4km) climb up to the town itself. The road levels out and we continue our up-and-down ride through spectacular scenery before a great descent, which crosses the river at the small village of Kelivody. Here, we load up the bikes to drive across a high mountain pass to the town of Faratsiho. From here, the road deteriorates dramatically and we need 4X4 vehicles to pass the 29mi (47km) stretch to Sambaina. This is an adventurous drive passing through a region rarely visited by tourists and provides a unique insight into the lives of those who live along the route. From Sambaina, we rejoin the tarmac for the final drive to Antsirabe. The entire transfer is likely to take up to five hours, but we stop regularly to stretch our legs and have a look around. Antsirabe is an elegant city founded by Norwegians in 1856. It has a temperate climate and a very European feel, including the local beer industry for which it is known.

Accommodation: Vatolahy Hotel (or similar)

Departing Antsirabe, we start with a very short transfer to Vinanikarena to avoid the hectic morning traffic within the city. This is a long day of cycling with a few up and downs, including a 2.5mi (4km) climb to the Col de Tapia, which is named after a local tree resistant to bush fires, which makes for some interesting scenery. The support vehicle is with us all day, so a rest is available if needed. Today’s destination is Ambositra, the centre of the wood-carving industry in Madagascar. The highlands are characterised by the architecture: the houses are made with ornately carved wooden balconies and brightly coloured shutters. Upon arrival, depending on timings, we may visit a Zafimaniry wood-carving workshop to learn all about this local art, which is on the Unesco list of Intangible Cultural Heritage (if there isn’t sufficient time today, we visit tomorrow morning).

Accommodation: Artisan Hotel (or similar)

We have a lot of ground to cover today to get to Ranomafana National Park. We start with a transfer to Camp Robin before riding towards Ambohimahasoa. The landscape is still dominated by rice fields, pine forests, eucalyptus trees and jagged mountains. The last section, from Vohiparara, cruises downhill through a ravine canyon, with a tremendous view of the Namorona River and the rainforest, to our final destination of Ranomafana, our base for the next two nights.

Accommodation: Hotel le Grenat (or similar)

We have a day off the saddle today to explore Ranomafana National Park. With rainforested hills and abundant wildlife, this has long been considered a highlight of Madagascar, and is one of the most visited national parks in the country. The entrance lies about 4mi (7km) from Ranomafana village. Altitudes in the park range from 2,625ft to 3,940ft (800m to 1,200m). In addition to densely forested hills, the terrain is characterised by numerous small streams, which plummet down to the beautiful Namorona River. Although much of the region has been logged, the easternmost part of the park retains relatively large areas of primary forest. The morning is spent walking through the park, learning about the abundant flora and fauna and, in the early evening, we have the chance to go on a night walk in the hope of spotting nocturnal lemurs and chameleons.

Accommodation: Hotel le Grenat (or similar)

We start with a two-hour transfer to Fianarantsoa, which translates as ‘good education’ and is known locally as ‘the city where one learns good things’. It is regarded as the cultural and intellectual centre of Madagascar and is home to some of the oldest Protestant and Lutheran cathedrals on the island. We start cycling here following a windy road to Ambalavao, the centre of the Madagascan wine industry. The climate is said not to be ideal for grape vines but it is a tradition left by the priests and monks who lived in the Fianarantsoa area. We climb a steady pass then enjoy a fabulous descent with great views before arriving in Ambalavao.

Accommodation: Tsienimparihy Lodge (or similar)

We start cycling from the hotel today and pause to visit the small Anja nature reserve, where we hope to see ring-tailed lemurs in their natural habitat. Continuing on a straight road flanked by mountains, we head towards Ihosy, the capital of the Bara people. This nomadic community herd the prized, large-horned zebu cattle. We pass through the mountain chain of Andringitra, which serves as a transition between the dry south and the green highlands, with its ‘three hillocks’ and huge ‘archbishop’s cape’. Along the way, we pass the Bishop’s Hat, which is sacred for local people as it is where their ancestors chose a collective suicide rather than give in to the Merina people. On reaching the town of Zazafotsy, we jump on the bus for a transfer over the mountain pass and then through the huge dessert-like Plateau de Horombe, home to deep-red soil and sprawling savannah. Beyond the plateau, we arrive in Isalo, our base for the next two nights.

Accommodation: Isalo Ranch (or similar)

Today we take a break from our bikes for a hike in Isalo National Park. We spend the day exploring this vast region of wind-polished and water-scoured rock towers, deep canyons, gorges and oases, which is often described as Eden. During our time, we go walking in the magnificent Canyon des Makis in search of cheeky ring-tailed lemurs and Verreaux’s sifakas. The eroded mountains also served as a place where the Bara kept their dead before they could bury them in tombs. We start our walking and reach the massif after about 20 minutes, where we have a spectacular view of the huge sandstone mountains with beautiful colours and strange, battered formations creating many different images like ‘the tortoise’, ‘the masks’ and ‘the crocodiles’. We also visit the Piscine Naturelle (natural swimming pool), a beautifully lush spot in such an arid landscape, where we may swim and relax. Enjoy the sheer beauty of the park – the combination of eroded coloured rocks, strange plants and enveloping silence make this one of the most captivating places in Madagascar.

Accommodation: Isalo Ranch (or similar)

Today is our last day cycling and we ride from the hotel through the dramatic rock formations heading out of the national park. Leaving the canyon, the ride continues to the sapphire mining town of Ilakaka and through isolated forests that constitute the most important remnant of dry deciduous forest in Madagascar. After finishing the ride, we transfer through Zombitse National Park and through areas known for flamboyantly painted Mahafaly and Antandroy tombs. From Tulear, we continue north of Ifaty to Ifaty Beach, a seaside resort protected by coral reefs. The landscape is dominated by cactus-like plants and mangrove trees line the coast, which are used by local Vezo communities who earn their livelihoods through fishing.

Accommodation: Hotel de la Plage (or similar)

Our hotel lies on the beach and today is a full free day to relax on the beach or take part in optional activities. From July to mid-September, there is the option to go whale watching as migrating humpback whales pass through to give birth in shallow, warm waters. Situated in the largest lagoon in Madagascar, the area is also protected by a large coral reef, which makes it an ideal place for diving and snorkelling.

Accommodation: Hotel de la Plage (or similar)

Today we transfer to Tulear Airport for our flight to Antananarivo, arriving in the afternoon. Depending on the flight schedule, you may have free time to explore Antananarivo on your own.

Accommodation: Au Bois Vert Lodge (or similar)

Depending on the time of your flight, you may have the opportunity to embark on an optional short city tour of Tana by bus. With its bustling markets and ancient town on a hill with freestone churches and ancient royal palaces, it is unique among the world’s capitals. Built around Anosy Lake, Tana offers much of interest set against a backdrop of terracing with outstanding views from the Queen’s Palace.