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Your Words – We tell it like it is! Holiday Reviews by previous Exodus travellers

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41 Reviews

4.4 out of 5

Robert Stevenson

Reviewed October 2014

Madagascan Discoverer trip - September 2014

I was in a group of twelve on the 4 September 2014 trip, led by a very popular Malagasy guide (favourably referred to in many reviews) whose very long name was conveniently shortened to “Sol”. Weather at this time of year turned out to be mainly very good – not over-hot in the later stages of the trip. Unfortunately, our first few days in the rain forest were pretty damp – it rained non-stop. This did not prevent us seeing any of the wildlife but some of the initial photos inevitably reflected the difficulty of taking them. Occasionally, as in the Kirindi reserve, the lemurs are habituated to humans and, if you sit quietly, one troupe will come and mingle – especially if you give them some water. (Don’t touch their tails!) Others stick to the high trees and are often frustratingly difficult to photograph because so many branches and twigs get in the way. After the rain forest we flew back to Antananarivo (“Tana”) and, thereafter until the last day, all travel was by road. Apart from splitting the group into four 4WDs for the Tsingy excursion, all driving was in a smallish bus. The bus was reasonably comfortable and air-conditioned but we rarely felt the need for the A/C as long as the fan was on. There are a lot of long driving days but the roads on the circular part of the tour are all pretty good and, if you want to see the country properly, there is really no alternative. Sol made sure we had plenty of stops so the experience was fine for most of us – if not all. The road up to the Tsingy was a different matter and was in serious need of improvement. It will probably get this before too long – graders were already in evidence and tourists will wonder what the fuss was about within a couple of years. Ferry crossings were slow and inefficient but provided a good opportunity to chill out. The worst length of dirt road is probably between Tulear and the hotel north of Ifaty. This requires a lot of patience and will probably not be upgraded anytime soon. Hotels were, as indicated by previous reviews, surprisingly good and pretty clean for the most part. For those who cannot get away from their phones or tablets Wi-Fi is available at most of them – if only in Reception. Electricity is sometimes rationed (e.g. 7-10pm only) and room lighting usually leaves a lot to be desired. One “tented” camp was a bit basic but perfectly acceptable. Meals were good – although menus were not particularly varied. If you like Zebu steak and chips you will enjoy this trip a lot. That said some of the fish is excellent and I had one meal of lobster which was greatly enjoyed. Desserts are mainly fruit so it is difficult to over-indulge too much. As regards health issues I was lucky – being on antibiotics for a pre-holiday infection. I suspect this protected me because everybody else had tummy troubles during the first week, although nobody seemed much under the weather for more than a day or two. Few mosquitos were in evidence – even in the rain forest. I took great care to smother myself in DEET throughout the trip and only relaxed the regime when we returned to Tana at the end – when, inevitably, I suffered several bites. The Tsingy is a strange area of pinnacles and extremely sharp rocks. It is well worth seeing and the climbing element is worth experiencing (not for the faint-hearted but not onerous). We had no problems but it is probably worth making sure that your insurance covers helicopter evacuation (assuming a helicopter is actually available – which may not be the case). To my surprise the scenery on our later circular route did not vary very much – rolling brown/yellow hills with scrub and lots of little square houses. (I had been expecting mountains but we only saw them from a distance in the south). Others have commented on the “slash and burn” approach to agriculture and the deforestation evident, with all the wildlife under threat and confined to reserves. Whilst there is a lot of truth to these observations I felt that most of the scenery we saw had probably not changed much for many years. That said, the change will probably accelerate in the near future so now is a good time to go. Baobabs are nearly everywhere on the west coast and you will get baobabbed out! Tana has some interesting areas and the older buildings on the central escarpment (where the wealthy live) could almost be from an old European town. The lake in the centre of the city is a disgrace – being widely (and openly) used as a latrine and the smell is offputting. Baobab alley was good – although the locals tend to congregate there a lot (some with herds of Zebu) and there were comments to the effect that they spoiled the pictures! Sadly we didn’t get a decent sunset there. Others may be luckier. I think now is a very good time to see Madagascar. Tourism, whilst increasing, has not yet taken off and one does not get pestered to buy souvenirs to anything like the irritating extent one does in so many other countries. I think I would still recommend seeing Ethiopia first but this was a good and enjoyable trip and can safely be recommended.

Most Inspirational Moment

The day-long trek in Isola park (including a swim in a natural pool) was exactly the right length and gave us a morning in a shady canyon and a hot walk in the afternoon finished off with a nice swim. I wouldn't say this was inspirational but the scenery was occasionally spectacular and it was a very enjoyable day.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Sol was excellent - always smiling, always helpful, always well-organised. He well deserves the accolades he always gets!

Advice for Potential Travellers

If you want to take photos of lemurs in the tree tops you will obviously need an up-to-date camera with plenty of zoom capability. (I found 20x was sufficient for the most part but could have done with more.) The nocturnal walks also demand flash and anti-shake technology. A waterproof camera could well be useful in the rain forest. Walking around in the cities (especially Tana) is dangerous - not so much from attention by the locals but because there are a lot of cars and they all seem to be parked on the pavement/sidewalk so you have to venture into the road risking life and limb. Take care! There is no particular problem outside the cities. Depending on when you travel it is probably worth taking water-proofs and/or a folding umbrella. Mosquito nets are often provided - but not always when they are needed (like in Tana). It is still worth taking your own wedge net. The exchange rate means that changing the recommended £400 at the outset means you get a brick of notes. After you have contributed to the tips kitty you will need somewhere to carry this securely. There are very few places where reliable ATMs can be found (e.g. there is a good one in Tulear) so doing a large change at the airport on the first day is the best way. There are still surprisingly few places to buy souvenirs. You will find a few stalls around Baobab alley and at Kirindi but the only other good opportunities are at stops at shops after Andisirabe and in Tulear (where there is a shell market). More excursions are available than are advertised. On the last day (north of Ifaty) you will need something to do unless you like mooching around. In season, whale watching is possible (we were unlucky) but there are also snorkelling trips, wind-surfing and visits to the "Spiny Forest". Bear in mind that transport has to be organised for these. Cost for the day is unlikely to exceed £30. Save your plastic water bottles for the local kids during the driving days - but throw them to people rather than attempting to give them to specific kids. We nearly had an accident when a kid decided to run alongside the bus in order to get hold of a proffered bottle and nearly fell under the bus wheels. The morning gorge walk on Day 10 started early and was surprisingly cold before the sun came up. we didn't take Sol's warnings seriously and regretted it. Take a pullover and gloves.

Patricia Brown

Reviewed August 2014

Madagascan Discoverer

I enjoyed the variety of scenery and the wildlife, particularly the lemurs. The group was quite small (9 of us) and we seemed to gel well with one another. I enjoyed the food which was more adventurous than that I had in Borneo last year with another company.

Most Inspirational Moment

The lemurs ! That's what I looked forward to and I was not disappointed. I particularly enjoyed Lemur Island early on in the holiday, as the lemurs were habituated to humans and were virtually 'all over us'. I enjoyed the Tsingy and the walk in Isalo equally.

Thoughts on Group Leader

He was a good leader. Always appeared cheerful even though he possibly didn't feel it. Most things went smoothly and he dealt with issues as they arose.

Advice for Potential Travellers

The trip notes prepared us for most eventualities such as the rough roads and long drives and problems with hot water/power- I was grateful for that preparation. If anything, I was surprised at the low-ish temperature in the east of Madagascar and could have done with taking a couple of more warm garments.

Anonymous

Reviewed November 2013

MADAGASCAN DISCOVERER

This was an amazing trip using a variety of transport through a culturally diverse country with varied landscapes and incredible flora and fauna much of which is endemic to Madagascar. This is far more than a wildlife spotting trip, it is an active trip with early starts and most days were packed full-every day was an adventure.

Most Inspirational Moment

There are so many it's hard to choose. The wildlife, in particular the lemurs were the highlight of the trip and we were lucky to spot many different types of lemurs in the National Parks or purely whilst out trekking, it was such a thrill waking at Grace Lodge to the calls of the Indri and then seeing them close up in the wild. We enjoyed several night walks and were lucky enough to spot several Mouse Lemurs on these as well as many chameleons, frogs and so on. The walk to and through Canyon des Makis in Isalo was incredible, a walk through a dry landscape with Zebu farmers tending their cattle to rice fields and a verdant oasis with crystal clear pools. The trek to the piscine naturelle was hot and quite long but well worth it, so much to see along the way, the tombs and to learn about the history of the people. I loved driving through the Highlands in a hail storm and the 4wd drives across bumpy sandy tracks (roads) and then the ferry trips to Morondava. The first sighting of Baobab Alley was awe inspiring and I never tired of seeing the amazing baobabs. The camping in Kirindy Forest was just brilliant, I loved showering out in the forest listening to the calls of lemurs. Seeing the Fossa was so exciting too! The morning canoe trip through the gorge was so peaceful, amazing colours on the rocks and seeing the tombs of the first inhabitants of Madagascar. The trek and climb using harnesses through Grand Tsingy and over the bridge was tough and hot but so worthwhile and I felt a great sense of achievement. Tana the capital felt like home in the end, a lively city full of charm. The days we spent by the sea were so relaxing, some fabulous sunsets. I will never forget the welcome we got everywhere, children running out and waving to us, the whole trip is inspirational!

Thoughts on Group Leader

Sol was a fantastic group leader who told us all about the history of Madagascar, the people, the wildlife and the places we visited. I spotted a large bird when we were driving in separate 4x4's which I described to him later on and he was able to tell me exactly what it was which was great. He was really clear in letting us know what to bring for a night walk such as mozzie spray, head torch and so on and letting us know what we would need for a days activities and he tried to be as flexible as he could to fit in what everyone wanted to do. He was really helpful translating menus when we were choosing supper each night on arrival and in generally looking after us. I felt we were in a very safe pair of hands and would totally recommend Sol.

Advice for Potential Travellers

I think you need to be reasonably fit for this trip, there were some walks which were tiring mainly due to the heat rather than the distance, you do need to make sure you are drinking lots of water all the time. There are some quite steep treks through the rainforest when spotting lemurs so you need walking boots with a good grip. There are some longer days of driving but personally I enjoyed the variety of landscapes I saw from the window, there were also frequent stops along the way for different interesting sights or for a loo stop! The 4x4 drives were through amazing countryside and villages and although we had air conditioning in our vehicle we did not feel the need to use it as we found it was just fine with the windows down. Some reviews have been critical about the trip because of a few long days driving but Madagascar is quite a big country so in order to see everything some longer days driving were necessary, it didn't detract from the trip at all for me though so don't let it put you off. There are in any case relaxing days by the beach interspersed with the driving though overall it's a busy trip, often with early starts each day and packed with exciting activities and different things to see. The trip notes to me did not do justice to the amazing things we did every day, each day was 'wow'! Bring mosquito coils to burn at night, we found them invaluable! Also although the latter part of the trip was really hot, some earlier parts of the trip were cooler so make sure you bring a fleece for evenings. Bring a good camera, a spare battery for when there is no electricity and lots of memory cards as you will need them, there is so much to photograph!

Anonymous

Reviewed September 2013

MADAGASCAN DISCOVERER

Different from anywhere else!

Most Inspirational Moment

Madagascar's USP is its unique wildlife. In particular, the lemurs and baobabs. So there are two highlights: the first was seeing diademed sifaka, in the first park we visited, leaping gracefully from tree to tree, and the second is the Allee des Baobabs, a wonderful natural monument. Then the third wonderful moment was standing atop the lookout point on the Grands Tsingy. The landscape is unbelievable and the via ferrata to get there was exhilerating.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Sol is a top man. You're in safe hands with him: knowledgeable, polished, anticipating the group's needs and wishes, and with a smile like sunshine.

Advice for Potential Travellers

The trip notes over-exaggerate the ardours of the travel. Whilst there are long driving days, the roads are generally good. Obvioulsy, heading out to the Tsingy, the roads are bumpy, but you're in 4x4s so it's fine. They make sure you get appropriate breaks. Don't let the travelling put you off! The accommodation is also way better than I expected. At Morondava we were offered the chance to do a pirogue trip out to the fishing village. We'd thoroughly recommend doing this. It was so peaceful and relaxing and the guys made sure we saw loads of wildlife, including the funniest little jumping fish. They also offered a chance to meet the lcoal people, which I felt was otherwise missing from this trip.

Anonymous

Reviewed July 2013

MADAGASCAN DISCOVERER

A varied trip with excellent scenery and loads of lemurs. You learn a lot about the people and culture of this island. I was a little nervous because of the journey times but very pleased I went. You’ll see no other country like it.

Most Inspirational Moment

There are a couple of walks across the rugged landsacape, one more of a climb than a walk and not for those with vertigo but great fun. You will see loads of lemurs. The poverty is shocking. Every where you go there are underfed children.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Sol was well organised, sociable and knowledgeable. You couldn't ask for more in a tour leader

Advice for Potential Travellers

For such a big island be prepared for the long drives which are longer than stated in the trip notes because of stops you make on the way. We did several hotel to hotel journeys of 12 - 13 hours, in time to grab a quick meal and then bed. The route to Tsingy is made worse by delays waiting for ferries. One of the internal flights required us to get up at 3:30am. I would advise against this trip for anyone who is particularly unhappy with long journeys.

Anonymous

Reviewed October 2012

MADAGASCAN DISCOVERER

What a wonderfully all encompassing tour of Madagascar taking in a great selection of the fantastic countryside including lovely beaches on the shores of the Indian ocean, the all important lemurs and other fauna and flora, the people and the culture that makes Madagascar such a diverse interesting place to visit.

Most Inspirational Moment

Being able to see the lemurs in their natural habitat and close up and personal at a private reserve at vakona lodge and in lemur park in tana was wonderful. The chameleons are amazing. Climbing in Tsingy limestone forest is well worth the effort. The friendly Malagasy people will leave a lasting impression.

Thoughts on Group Leader

The tour leader was excellent. He was friendly and spproachable and took account of everyone's needs. He was very helpful when anyone felt unwell or when anyone found the going a little tough in the heat. His commentaries were very informative and it was no trouble if anyone wanted information on any aspect of the trip.

Advice for Potential Travellers

Be prepared for an intense programme with some very long drives on some poor roads or dirt tracks but take a good camera because there is so much to captivate and interest you.

Anonymous

Reviewed January 2012

MADAGASCAN DISCOVERER

an all-round fantastic trip, with plenty of opportunities to see wildlife, stunning countryside, explore local markets, go hiking & swimming – be prepared for some bumpy rides and dusty roads, that’s part of the fun!

Most Inspirational Moment

Climbing the Tsingy, seeing lots of different kinds of lemurs, watching the sun set over the alley of the baobabs - there were lots of inspirational moments, plus a great group spirit.

Thoughts on Group Leader

The group leader made every effort to ensure this was a memorable trip for everyone. He was very well informed, very polite and helpful and made the group feel comfortable and safe.He collected money from everyone at the start of the trip which was then distributed as tip amongst the various guides/drivers. There seemed to be a few disappointments, so in future it would be good if the group actually knew how much money went to whom.

Advice for Potential Travellers

Don't be afraid to try the food in the local markets - it's delicious and a lot cheaper than eating in tourist restaurants.

Anonymous

Reviewed November 2011

MADAGASCAN DISCOVERER

It was an interesting trip, with rather a lot of travelling on poor roads though we saw some interesting sights, a wonderful town market, where we were perfectly safe, and a village which thrived on illegal stills. To an extent the hotels were better than I expected in a poor African country. I liked the food, particularly the Zebu steak, and the sea food. Plenty of lemurs being charming. Too large a group for the nature walks. It seems a shame that the State seems to be going down hill. Rather too much of a security problem in Tana to walk about. Some lovely craft work to buy, particularly the marquetry. The leader Solo was excellent.

Most Inspirational Moment

There really wasn't enough of walking. There were two excellent ones. One superb one in the Grand Tsingy in the limestone cliffs being harnessed as well, challenged me as an 'elderly person' but I survived!! We had two excellent, knowledgeable guides, who spoke good English. An excellent canoe trip in the early morning seeing a nest of Egrets, lots of birds, and the tombs of an ancient people, and a good, rather hot walk in Isalo national park to a natural swimming pool, and then unfortunately the hot walk back.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Solo was excellent, he knew his country, was unfailingly patient and helpful, with excellent English. The drivers were all good too.

Advice for Potential Travellers

Bring your handwash-you have to be absolutely immaculate over hygeine.

Anonymous

Reviewed November 2011

MADAGASCAN DISCOVERER

I did the "Madagascar Discovery" tour and I thought it was a great experience.

Most Inspirational Moment

I loved the colors, sounds and views of the country, they were different and very beatiful. All the species of lemurs that we saw, such a variety of wild life, sounds of the forests, smiling faces of local people and especially kids, pictoresk views on our hikes, sunsets on the ocean and on the avenue of Baobabs - all of it was spectacular.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Our guide, Solofoniray Razafimahazo, was amazing! Myself and all of my tour-mates were of the same opinion, that he was one of the absolutely best guides that we have ever had. He was very helpful, kind, positive, was always smiling, a genuine, not spoiled, not corrupted, really good person, very intelligent and knowledgeable. A lot of info on the local life, traditions, nature, flora and fauna.

Advice for Potential Travellers

I can recommend this trip, but please, be aware that this trip requires you to spend a lot of time in a bus, from one upt to 3 days in a row.

Anonymous

Reviewed August 2011

MADAGASCAN DISCOVERER

the content of the itinerary was very well planned with lots of opportunities to see lemurs, although I would have happily not bothered with the Lakes at Fianarantsoa. There are some really long days on the road but the scenery is always captivating. My biggest negative was the lack of service at the hotels particularly in the restaurants – having done a fair amount of travelling in africa and asia, this was the worse experience. BUT it was a good trip with some fabulous photographic opportunities.

Most Inspirational Moment

All the opportunities to see Lemurs - whether in the rain forest or in private parks - one image which makes me smile when I recall it, is the lemur park at Vakuna Lodge (Nr Perinet national park), where the lemurs used us as places to jump on to and off and to sit on. I have some lovely photos of people in the group with one or two lemurs sitting on their arms and shoulders. Also the two walks in the Tsingy's were interesting; fascinating structures and great to be able to get out and walk - it was a bonus to see lemurs on both Tsingy walks.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Sol who was the leader of our group until we returned to Tana was one of the best I have travelled with. Very well organised and made even the long road journeys interesting by telling us different things about Madagascar - he was righly proud of his country and delighted in introducing us to as many experiences as possible. We also had some excellent local guides in different areas and some good drivers.

Advice for Potential Travellers

I posted some general comments on the community arrivals board in answer to some questions from members of the group going out after our return but mainly I would advise that the long road journeys tend to be longer than advised on the itinerary so be prepared. It was one of the ironies of the trip that the really nice places to stay you arrive late and leave early! As a vegetarian I found it difficult to get sufficient food (this is obviously my personal observation) and I would probably have taken some museli with me to supplement breakfast - which were generally meagre. We did have chances to stock up on food and fruit in supermarkets which was good. The photographic opportunities are numerous - take lots of memory cards/film. Re-charging cameras, I-pods, Kindles etc is no problem. Some of the best photographic opportunities are in the early morning - whether walking on the beach in Morondova or around gardens in the various hotels. Definitely visit the Lemur Park in Tana - it is a rescue centre in a lovely park setting with the lemurs running free (not in cages) and really friendly, informative staff. You can never have enough opportunities to see lemurs. Take a head torch for the walks in the Tsingy...you will need your hands.

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