Gems of the Amalfi Coast Walking

Explore Amalfi’s marina, and admire those sea views, before dinner.

Today’s walk is to the charming historic village of Ravello, the first stretch along a scenic route around the headland to Atrani, a well-preserved little town with narrow streets and a serene town square. Then you climb up past Castiglione to the Villa Cimbrone, on Ravello’s headland. Take your time to wander around this ancient town, ‘closer to the sky than the seashore’ according to the French novelist, Andre Gide. Ravello is one of the most exclusive villages of the Amalfi coast, and has two magnificent villas, – the 11th century Villa Rufolo, once a papal residence and later the home of Richard Wagner, and the Villa Cimbrone, a sumptious 19th century mansion with fabulous gardens and unequalled views over the Gulf of Salerno. Later walk back down to Atrani along the ‘Valle del Dragone’ – the Valley of the Dragon, which was the industrial area of Atrani with power being harnessed from the rivers. Then retrace your steps back to Amalfi. Optional extra to the hamlets of Scala, Minuta and Pontone.

Set off along the quiet back alleys of Amalfi where you will notice the strong Moorish influences. An ancient stairway takes you up underneath the impressive limestone cliffs towards the little village of Pontone, part of the medieval defence system of the city of Amalfi. Onward to Monte Aureo with its fortified ruins, from where you will have unforgettable views along the Amalfi Coast. Back through Pontone you walk to the Valle dei Mulini, the valley of the mills, with the ruins of Europe’s most ancient paper mills, dating back to the 11th century. The footpath descends through abundant woodlands and then passes lemon groves on its way back to Amalfi.

You can choose to take today as a rest day, or you can catch a bus to Bomerano and walk up into the mountains, towards the highest peaks of the Amalfi Coast, from where the views are perhaps even more beautiful than from the Sentiero degli Dei. A stiff walk up through the outskirts of Bomerano then through chestnut woods, the path starts to climb towards Monte Tre Calli. Reach the ridge of Monte Tre Calli with unrivalled 360-degree views. A scenic walk along the ridge, through grassland and woodland to a natural rock formation known as Il Fungo, ‘The Mushroom’. From there you have the choice of returning the way you came or making a loop by descending steeply to join a forest road, which leads to a shrine of the Virgin of the Silence, with magical views towards Positano.

Hop on a bus to Bomerano, then take the most famous footpath in Southern Italy, the Sentieri degli Dei, (Footpath of the Gods), across a steep rugged hillside with sweeping views of the Gulf of Salerno. You will reach the tiny hamlet of Nocelle and pass through another spectacular valley to arrive at the little village of Montepertuso, then a short but steep drop down steps to the charming seaside town of Positano.

Why not catch a ferry (April to October only) to the Isle of Capri – the most famous of the three islands in the Gulf of Naples. In the Tyrrhenian Sea off the Sorrento peninsula, it is an ancient continuation of the Latteri mountains which form the backbone of the peninsula.

From both Amalfi and Positano, there are boats sailing for Capri throughout the day – take an early boat so that you have enough time to explore. There are many places to visit – including several Roman villas – the most famous being the Villa Jovis – the Natural Arch, the Faraglioni (3 impressive sea stacks), Via Krupp (a historic switchback paved footpath leading down to Marina Piccola), and Villa Lysis – dedicated to ‘the youth of love’, built in 1905.

Take a bus to Montepertuso, then following ancient footpaths through the forest, you climb uphill towards Santa Maria del Castello, the fortress defending the narrow valley between the Amalfi and the Sorrento sides of the peninsula. From here you can admire both the Gulf of Salerno and the Bay of Naples. You then skirt the mountainside on a mule track to reach the Caserma Forestale, the Foresters’ Barracks. The walk continues through the forest on a zigzagging trail down to Montepertuso and then another pathway down to Positano.