Search for Snow Leopards with Valerie Parkinson

Most Inspirational Moment

Seeing a mother snow leopard with her two yearling cubs hunting and caring for her family.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Valerie is simply peerless in her abilities to lead this trip and her passion for Ladakh. She was simply the best and a big feature in our success and the group having such a great time on expedition.

Advice for Potential Travellers

Ensure you have a suitable sleeping bag and many layers of clothes rather than improvising with a 3 season bag or one or two bulky layers. The weather can go from warm in the sun when trekking to very cold as the sun disappears. Your enjoyment depends on you being comfortable in both.

Suggestions

Both snow leopard trips I have done have been magical and anyone wishing to see a snow leopard would not find a better team to help them achieve that dream

Most Inspirational Moment

The snow leopard sitings.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Valerie was a fantastic leader and also a great friend to the local people.

Advice for Potential Travellers

Definitely hire the really warm sleeping bags and down jackets from Trekhire (who will deliver to anywhere in the UK). It is cold in the mountains in February!

Most Inspirational Moment

Seeing the snow leopards , albeit through spotting scopes . Completing some tough walks at altitude and cold temperatures.

Advice for Potential Travellers

Delhi airport arrivals - painfully slow immigration procedure , over 2 hours before being cleared and then collecting luggage. In camp - very cold at night so check if extra blankets / duvets can be hired from local homestay to offset cold ( even with a good sleeping bag temps of minus 23 in a tent at night not to be disregarded ). Wear lots of layers as once snow leopards spotted you then wait for hours to see what they get upto. Standing still means you chill down quickly , also when sun sets late afternoon the temp plummtes. Delhi airport departure to UK - make sure you have copy of itinerary . Airport security (Army) outside will deny you entry to terminal unless you have passport AND proof of flight , either on line checkin screen shots / boarding pass ( even with online check in no boarding pass issued until inside terminal, wifi unavailable to show online checkin ) etc. If someone already inside terminal they may be able to get printed itinerary from checkin desk ,showing name of passenger but then that person unable to leave terminal to pass itinerary to army security guard outside plus waiting passenger. Makes for a stressful time.

Most Inspirational Moment

On our first full day in the high mountains, we saw a female snow leopard with her two cubs, which were about 18 months old. The terrain they were crossing was insanely steep and yet the cubs started to play fight - what a privilege to see a window into their world. The golden eagles were numerous too, and some kind enough to do low level flybys.

Thoughts on Group Leader

In one word - inspiring, but equally I could say passionate, fun, friendly, knowledgeable, professional, experienced, calm, helpful, kind, compassionate, interesting, engaging, interactive, inclusive Val’s ‘bedtime stories’ were truly inspiring - what an amazing woman reaching the summit of an 8000+ meter peak without oxygen and being within a whisker of the summit of Everest, yet knowing when to call time to save lives. Val’s knowledge of the region is encyclopaedic so if history and culture lights you up, you’ll enjoy hours of chat

Advice for Potential Travellers

Three bits of advice: 1) This trip takes you to the realm of the snow leopard. We saw 6 snow leopards and 2 wolves across 4 days, at a distance of between 500 and 1200 meters. Do not expect a zoo or petting farm, but do bring good binoculars or powerful camera lenses (1000mm equivalent or more). The spotters have superb scopes and will happily take smartphone pictures down the eye piece - they are good at this..! 2) The wildlife is truly wild. Depending on where sightings are made may mean short or long / challenging treks at altitude (3800 to 4500 meters) are needed. This is very different to African safaris where spotting is easy and close… so bring realism and adventure into your expectations 3) Camping for 5 nights at 3900 meters in temperatures of down to -25oC is hard unless you have the right kit - such as merino thermals, multiple layers, down jacket and expedition sleeping bag (which can be hired). I often wore 7 layers in the evening and early morning.

Suggestions

No, just thanks for an amazing trip..! I will process my photos and then will be happy to share

Most Inspirational Moment

Simply being there. Drawing the threads together of previous trips to Ladakh. The very first sightings of the snow leopards. The drama of the landscape that provided the backdrop to these sightings. The opportunity to see the snow leopards in a variety of situations from a mating couple, solitary ones and mothers with cubs. The chance to engage with the local people as they openly shared their festivals with us and the sheer entrancement and enjoyment of villagers at the Stok Festival with masked dancers and the Oracles. All the smaller moments that made this trip - Exhilarating' - feeling the cold that draws the snow leopards down to lower altitudes at this time of year. Camping and the early morning calls from the team to muster behind the scopes which is the quickest I have ever crawled out of warm sleeping bag in such cold temperatures. The optional extras that put a real perspective on the challenges of living in such an environment - felt snow leopards from the local villagers - even each one of these having its own character, the ice stupas made by villagers to create a sustainable water supply for crops, winding up the road from Leh in a taxi as opposed to cycling up. The amazing opportunities we had to see so many snow leopards due to the expertise of the spotters. The trek and camp crew who always approach things with their great sense of humour and a smile. They are constantly in the background, and whilst I congratulated myself that I had survived the night in the cold, it is down to the team who make it all happen. Simply being there. Finishing off with high tea at The Imperial!!! They do a lovely scone and provide surreal setting to end the trip.

Thoughts on Group Leader

I have never had a bedtime story of local tales read to the group by the leader in the warmth of the mess tent after a lovely supper - so soporific that snuffles can occasionally be heard from the darker corners!!!! Valerie makes it happen. She encapsulates everything positive about the moment. Everyone has a their own personal reasons for venturing on this specific trip, purely to see snow leopards, to capture the perfect photograph of this elusive creature, to engage with the opportunity to see a wide variety of animals, to go to a place few go to and especially at a perceived 'difficult time of year', to engage with everything the region has to off - the reasons are personal and with Valerie your own personal needs and wants are engaged. Through travelling, living and working with the locals and the environment over several decades you benefit from all that she has done and the understanding she has of the area. All the hard work has been done by Valerie and you can get the best of the area and still feel like you are taking ownership of your own experience. She is dedicated to the multifacted nature of the area. There is an honest openness to share her many years of experience, knowledge, respect and dedication to the region. Valerie allows people to be who they are and goes with ease between being a leader and a friend to ensure everyone is safe and most importantly has a 'trip of a lifetime'.

Advice for Potential Travellers

Just do it!!! This very trip kept playing in my mind during the coronavirus lockdown of 2020 and I am so glad that I bit the bullet and booked the last place on this trip. Memories of the sightings, the landscape, the local people, the Exodus crew and fellow travelers kept me company during the months of solitude that followed our return. READ the trip notes and make sure you have all of the essential gear - it is a unique environment and there are challenges re the cold and altitude but by following the advice on the trip notes you will be able to enjoy and engage with every aspect of the trip. Go with an open mind - it is a trip of wildlife, trekking, culture, opportunities that arise that can't be planned for. For example one of the days 'scheduled' to see Leh at the start was 'diverted' to spotting the mating snow leopard couple. Don't understimate the cold - take responsibility for your own warmth and comfort. An excellent sleeping bag is essential and down jacket - there are excellent ones to hire through the trip notes if you don't want to spend loads of money. Weight of luggage on the flight to Leh is limited there are various ways to get over this so look at this before travelling. You don't need a change of clothes for every day but lots of layers. Even though it is cold the sun will burn so protection is essential - sunscreen and sunhat. Footwear suited to the environment is necessary - see trip notes. Enjoy the bedtime stories - sets you up for pleasant dreams!!! Book a porter to help carry your extra equipment - running to see the snow leopards early in the morning meant that those that had heavy camera gear were 'good to go' and spot and take photographs as soon as they got to the spotting platform. Totally trust the team with your phone - they were amazing at getting the shots of the snow leopards using your iphones/camera phone - using the scopes - people at home think I am a wizard with an iphone camera!!! Take advantage of some of the things to do in Leh and Delhi. Hiring a local taxi in Leh took us up into the hills and the local ice stupas. Delhi was the opportunity to take part in a tour run by a street children's charity.

Suggestions

This is a region that I have been to a couple of times, but never in winter and again it did not disappoint. The trip is unique in so much as the snow leopards don't appear at this altitude all year round - that is the reason to book it. If you are looking for real sustainable tourism then this is your chance - it is local, determined by the timings of nature and most importantly a chance to experience a Himalayan winter without going to remote extremes. It is a trip of a lifetime but I think I will join the 'cat population' and have nine lives so I can go again and it will still be the trip of a lifetime. Enjoy anticipation of considering going, booking, preparing, participating and most importantly reflecting on your return. It is one trip that will never leave you.

Most Inspirational Moment

There were many inspirational 'stand out' moments for me. These are a few of my personal ones. Watching the mating behaviour of a pair of Snow Leopards; the Oracles in a trance at Stok; having a local ask me if he could take a photo of me and his little daughter; the 'Street Kids' walking tour of Old Delhi. I loved standing outside the tent at 6.30am, watching the mountains light up while drinking a cup of steaming hot black tea. The rush up to the viewing platform when one of the spotters shouted 'Snow Leopard'. One of our crew demonstrating the correct way to slide down a frozen river on a flat stone.

Thoughts on Group Leader

This is my second trek with Valerie and she proved to be every bit the excellent leader on this trip as she did on the previous one. Knowledgeable, understanding of individual and group needs, Valerie's decades of experience in the region enabled her to be flexible with arrangements and cope with the changes forced on us by the Covid-19 outbreak at the end of our trip. Evenings were spent listening to her tell us about the region, the wildlife and the people. The crew she had picked were excellent and dedicated to the roles they played. They were clearly very loyal to Valerie.

Advice for Potential Travellers

In general, come prepared for cold weather. The nature of this particular trip means you will be standing around searching for wildlife or viewing and taking photographs so the heat normally generated trekking will quickly go. I found I was wearing a thick down jacket most of the time simply because although the sun can be warm, there is usually a cold breeze in the valleys and much of the time is spent stationary. If you're out all day, as soon as the sun disappears below the mountains the temperature drops very quickly. I wore thick winter socks for the same reason. The terrain underfoot was, in general, no harder than UK hills and a 3 season boot would probably suffice. We didn't need crampons but 'yaktrax' or similar might be useful as we had to cross a couple of frozen rivers. The Exodus kit list is a good starting point; vary it according to your own preference for cold weather. Don't skimp on the sleeping bag as this is your refuge and a good night's sleep is important. You don't need lots of changes of clothing because you don't end up sweating a lot and everyone is in the same situation. Exodus provide top quality spotting scopes (Swarovski) but you might want to bring your own, which can help with spotting and will enable you to digiscope. The nature of our encounters with Snow Leopards meant that big lenses were necessary because of distance and digiscoping would be ideal in these circumstances. Some great photos were taken with scope and mobile phone. Our encounters lasted a while, so a tripod (or at least a monopod) would makes things easier on the arms. But don't forget camera kit to cope with the amazing landscapes, villages and festivals too. Be aware that there is close scrutiny on the internal flights - all our camera kit had to come out of the back packs and was checked by the security people at Dehli before boarding the internal flight.

Suggestions

Approach this trip with realistic expectations and you won't be disappointed.

Most Inspirational Moment

Seeing the pair of snow leopards on the first day.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Excellent

Advice for Potential Travellers

Factor 50 sun cream and as many warm clothes as you can cram in your bag.

Most Inspirational Moment

Seeing a mother and two cubs on the same day we saw a pair of snow leopards above camp. Everyone raced up the hill to the spotting scopes, forgetting the altitude. We were still chatting excitedly over our luck at evening meal, having watched them for 3 hours.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Valerie is rightfully a legend - she knows everyone and even read us local tales from a book. She lives and breathes the region and that in turn feeds into the group and how good the trip turned out to be. She is also widely respected by the local people and staff, case in point one evening a ranger had his own client with an eye problem - first port of call was Valerie to see what she thought.

Advice for Potential Travellers

Don't scrimp on a warm sleeping bag, proper boots for the terrain and warm layers. This is not extreme terrain but you will enjoy life a lot more if you are comfortable. Take a small bag to leave in Delhi and another drybag of something to change into when you get bag to Leh. Likelihood is you will be wearing same clothes for daysin camp so just be warm.

Suggestions

Probably one of the best experiences I have done. I had thought I'd be lucky to see snow leopards once. To have 12 sightings, a lynx and then high tea in The Imperial just made the trip beyond my wildest dreams. Thanks to Valerie, the crew and my camera porter / assitant photographer Chosgun. Without whom the 600mm lens would have travelled up trails a lot slower.

Most Inspirational Moment

The whole trip from start to finish was good fun, but seeing a couple of snow leopards was the highlight of the trip. The wonderful scenery. We had 36 hours of snow, but when the sun came out and seeing the snow capped Himalayas in all there glory, was truly magnificent.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Valerie is a natural. Laid back, well organised, and was great fun to be with. You can see the pleasure she gets from being in the Himalayas, and helping the local people.

Advice for Potential Travellers

Do take the warmest of sleeping bag. We had very low temp. so everything does freeze during the night, so if you need to keep anything warm, just put in your sleeping bag. My face wipes, contact lens solution where all frozen after the first night. I have to admit, that over the six days camping, I only changed once, and probably only washed once, but everybody is in the same boat, so don't worry. As we had a lot of snow, I was really glad to have a pair of micro spikes. They made a huge difference trekking on the snow and ice. They give you a lot more confidence, but do buy decent ones ( Yak Trak ) as cheaper ones will fall apart after one day.

Suggestions

The home stay was a welcome relief after a few nights camping. The people in the mountain village are really wonderful. Nice to be in a room with a log burning fire, and to get up to a hot cup of tea and freshly baked bread.

Most Inspirational Moment

Seeing one of the leopards, after resting, stand up then roll around on the ground with paws in the air! We were told this helps camouflage its coat and hide its scent from its prey.

Thoughts on Group Leader

As we have said many times, Valerie Parkinson is second to none in all respects!

Advice for Potential Travellers

If you have visited the Himalaya during the summer months, we would highly recommend the contrasting experience of winter in Ladakh. There are very few other tourists, the scenery is different but more spectacular for its frozen rivers and snow-covered slopes. Yes, it can be very cold, but it can also be very bright and sunny, so, as long as you have the appropriate kit, there should be no problem. And don't take too many changes of clothes! Do as the local Ladakhis do in winter.....

Suggestions

Again, thanks to our Ladakhi team who looked after us with great care and thoughtfulness - nothing was too much trouble for them - and, of course, Valerie Parakinson.