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After uncovering ancient shrines and pathways in Kyoto, we head off the beaten track to the Kumano Kodo region, one of the most remote and rewarding pilgrimage routes in Japan. This moderately challenging walking trip focuses on beautiful scenery, nature and rural life, while following some of the most historic walks in the country. Staying in traditional ryokans along the way, we fully immerse in authentic Japanese culture and way of life. After, we visit Toba to learn about the pearl-collecting Ama Divers and embark on one last pilgrimage walk on the Nakasendo Way, before re-entering modern civilisation in Tokyo.
Highlights
Key Information
What's Included
What's Not Included
Moderately challenging. Hike durations span from two hours to seven to nine hours per day
Low altitude throughout. Most of the walking is on good paths, soft soil trails and part paved roads. The Kumano Kodo has some sections with long, steep ascents and descents
9 km / 5.6 miles
16 km / 9.9 miles
4 km / 2.5 miles
14 km / 8.7 miles
18 km / 11.2 miles
13 km / 8.1 miles
14 km / 8.7 miles
8 km / 5 miles
With about 2,000 temples, shrines and gardens, Kyoto is a treasure house of Japan’s cultural heritage and remains one of the most fascinating cities in Asia. Unlike many other Japanese cities, it escaped the ravages of both the Second World War and modern urban development, keeping intact much of the spirit and architecture of traditional Japan.
You are free to arrive at the start hotel anytime today during the day. This evening, there is a briefing with your leader.
Accommodation: Dormy Inn Premium Kyoto Ekimae (or similar)
This morning, we set out on our first hike, visiting the northern mountains and the Kibune shrine, followed by the Kurama temple. Our first stop, however, is the Ginkakuji (Silver Pavilion). From here, we climb up to the Daimonji mountain for an excellent view of Kyoto, then take a short train ride north to Kibune-guchi, where the hike to Kibune and Kifune shrine begins.
Kifune shrine was built upon the site where supposedly a goddess finished a long journey by boat. It’s dedicated to the deity of water and rain, so all those who seek protection and maritime safety come here to pray – especially seamen and fishermen. The charming town of Kibune is dotted with traditional restaurants and inns, with streams running beneath the restaurant platforms. It’s an excellent opportunity to relax, especially for those who wish to escape the Kyoto crowds.
We then set out for Kurama town, renowned for its Kurama temple and special hot springs. The temple is deep in the woods and requires a fair bit of legwork to reach, but those who do venture there are rewarded with beautiful scenery along the path.
We return to Kyoto for the evening, where you can choose to join an optional group dinner in the Gion district if you wish.
Accommodation: Dormy Inn Premium Kyoto Ekimae (or similar)
Leaving the north of Kyoto, we enjoy a pleasant hike on the Yamanobe-no-michi. The path is believed to be the oldest still in existence connecting Edo (present day Tokyo) with the western parts of Japan with a history of more than 1,200 years. Starting in present-day Nara and spanning through what used to be Yamato – the cradle of Japanese civilisation – the trail takes us through more than 9mi (15km) of distance and two millennia of history. Along the way, we discover relics of a distant past, including the seventh-century BCE shrine of Omiwa, said to be the oldest still standing in Japan. There are also many temples and shrines dotting the trail and the trail itself runs through lush forests and comfortable paths. As we pass rural villages, we can experience true Japanese hospitality as fruit vendors often offer locally grown fresh produce to trail hikers as an energy booster.
In the late afternoon, we return to Kyoto for an evening at leisure.
Accommodation: Dormy Inn Premium Kyoto Ekimae (or similar)
We have an early start to visit the most iconic sight in Kyoto: the Shinto shrine known as Fushimi Inari-taisha. Working folk have worshipped Inari, the deity of good harvest and business, since the seventh century. Even today, businessmen and entrepreneurs from all corners of Japan donate a torii arch to the shrine in hope of gaining the deity’s favour.
Although this custom is fairly recent, the mountain path has thousands of torii arches, making for a wonderful morning stroll at the break of dawn. We start early to beat the crowds, otherwise we must compete with the thousands of visitors Fushimi Inari-taisha attracts daily.
After the hike, we return to the hotel. The rest of the morning is free for visiting the sites of Kyoto, such as the Imperial Palace, Nijo Castle or the Golden Pavilion. In the afternoon, we leave Kyoto by train and head to Kumano Kodo, a series of pilgrimage routes more than 1,000 years’ old, when the imperial ancestors of Japan made pilgrimage from Kyoto. In the Kii Peninsula, the largest in Japan, the trails along Kumano Kodo are incredible for hiking.
Taking a train to the tip of the peninsula, we reach the rural coastal town of Tanabe, where we spend the night.
Accommodation: Azikuno Garten (or similar)
After an early breakfast, we take a bus to Takijiri-oji, the start point of the pilgrimage, from where we walk to Takahara. This is the steepest part of the trail, leading to Takahara Shrine, a Shinto shrine surrounded by ancient camphor trees. From here, we walk towards Takahara village, also called kiri-no-sato (village in the fog), a small, quiet town with rice terraces and surrounded by forests.
The trail continues upwards until we reach the Uwadawa-jaya teahouse, where the trail begins to descend, passing ruin shrines and the small villages of Osakamoto-oji and Chikatsuyu-oji, crossing Kitano-bashi bridge, and following the road to Nonaka-no-Shimizu, a source of potable water.
Around the Nonaka-no-Shimizu area, the group are accommodated in modern Japanese container style cottages, located not too far from the Kumano Kodo trail.
As our hike tomorrow is a bit longer and more challenging, we highly recommend turning in early.
Accommodation: Sen Retreat Chikatsuyu (or similar)
Today we start with a 10-minute bus ride to the start of our hike. We first start walking uphill, and head towards the woods to see Tsugizakura-oji, a sub-shrine at the top of steep stairs leading into a thick forest of huge cedar trees believed. Next to the entrance of Tsugizakura-oji, we find Toganoki-jaya, a replica of a traditional Japanese teahouse.
We then continue with a slow ascent to Kobiro-toge pass, followed by a relatively downward trail along a series of paved and unpaved paths, passing Jagata-jizo, which is believed to protect travellers from evil spirits, a couple of river crossings and passing by thick forests of cedar and cypress until we reach Kumano Hongu Taisha, the head shrine of more than 3,000 Shinto shrines in the Kumano area.
After visiting the shrine, we transfer by local bus to Yunomine Onsen, one of the oldest and most revered hot spring resorts in Japan as it used to be the place where pilgrims cleansed themselves before praying at Kumano Hongu Taisha.
Tonight, we stay at a ryokan, another traditional Japanese-style inn, where we sleep on a futon, have access to the public onsen, and enjoy a Kaiseki-style dinner.
Accommodation: Yunomineso Ryokan (or similar)
After breakfast, we take a bus from Yunomine Onsen to Ukegawa where today’s hike (mainly along unpaved road) commences.
We pass the remains of the Matsuhata-jaya teahouse and Hyakken-gura, one of the top spots in Wakayama to see the Kumano mountains, which consists of around 3,600 peaks.
From here, we continue on a mainly level road towards the remains of the Sakura-jaya teahouse, before descending from the hills, along a path with cobblestones (which can be slippery, especially if wet or covered with moss). At the foot of the hill, we should find small prayer tablets left by other spiritual hikers as offerings. We continue onto Koguchi, the end of today’s walk, where we take a bus via Kanmaru to Kawayu onsen. This place is famous for the hot spring beside the river.
Accommodation: Omuraya Ryokan (or similar)
We rise very early and return to Koguchi to begin our hike. Today’s trail is one of the most challenging sections of Kumano Kodo, taking us through forested hills and along unpaved roads. However, a series of historic sites and wonderful views await as we pass Waroda-ishi rock (where the Kumano deities are believed to meet and chat over tea), through the woods of Irokawatsuji, and over Funami-toge Pass, where we glimpse the Pacific Ocean.
After hiking for almost eight hours, we arrive in Nachi. Here, we see Nachi Falls, the highest waterfall in Japan, and pay a visit to Kumano Nachi Taisha shrine.
Later in the afternoon, we take a local bus (approximately 30 minutes) to Katsuura, staying at a Japanese inn on the beautiful islet-dotted Katsuura Bay, where we can listen to the ocean waves and relax after completing our hikes along the memorable Kumano Kodo.
Accommodation: Hotel Sunrise Katsuura (or similar)
After breakfast, we get ready for a short walk to return to Katsuura station on foot (with luggage), where we begin our journey by train to Toba in the neighbouring Mie prefecture.
The rural Mie prefecture has forested landscapes and Mediterranean-looking coastlines. The area is also known for producing some of the freshest seafood in Japan and, in its waters, pearl cultivation has become an important activity.
Upon arrival in Toba, we store our luggage safely at the station before having lunch and walking a short distance to Mikimoto Pearl Island, where we learn about pearl cultivation and the life of the Ama Divers. These female divers are famous for their centuries-long tradition of diving for pearls without oxygen masks and here we witness an Ama Diver demonstration.
After, we continue to the Osatsu area in Toba where we spend the next two nights at a ryokan in Japanese-style rooms.
Accommodation: Ohtaya Ryokan (or similar)
This morning, we can relax in the ryokan or walk around the neighbourhood where there may be the chance to visit a local shrine and temple or, in warmer weather, enjoy a swim at the local sandy beach.
Late morning, we take a short walk to visit the hut of an Ama Diver, who prepares us a grilled seafood meal.
After lunch, we continue to the Ise Shrine by train, one of the most sacred areas for the Shinto religion and a favourite pilgrimage destination for Japanese people.
Just a short walk away, the picturesque Okage-Yokocho district offers a great outlook on the traditional side of the area with quaint shops selling local arts and crafts and food before returning to our ryokan.
Accommodation: Ohtaya Ryokan (or similar)
A long, scenic train journey with one change takes us to Kiso Fukushima in about 4hr 30min.
Upon arrival, take a short orientation tour with our tour leader. Kiso Fukushima is a delightful town in the Nagano prefecture on the railway line between Nagoya and Matsumoto in central Japan, roughly half-way along the Nakasendo.
It was an important checkpoint on the route, and its historic sekisho (barrier station) is one of only two on the Nakasendo. The Fukushima sekisho-ato (checkpoint) is where travellers on the Nakasendo were made to wait and present their passes to travel on the highway. The Tokugawa regime was on the lookout for guns and women travelling in disguise.
Across the Kiso River from the Fukushima Sekisho-ato is Kozenji Temple with an attractive rock garden. Kozenji Temple is free to enter and lovely, especially in autumn.
We spend the next two nights in the Kiso Fukushima area in locally run accommodation.
Accommodation: Guest House Hill Top/Mori No Hotel (or similar)
After an early breakfast, we travel by train to Nagiso in about 50 minutes. Upon arrival, we take a short ride on a local bus to Tsumago, a well-preserved post town.
Tsumago had a golden era when merchants, nobles and other prominent people frequently passed through for trade and other formal appointments.
From Tsumago, we start the journey to Magome, one of the post towns that flourished in the Edo period. The trail that runs from Tsumago to Magome is perhaps the most popular section of Nakasendo. This ancient trail can be completed in about three hours, including some quick breaks. After concluding the trail, we ride a bus to Nakatsugawa and then a train back to Kiso Fukushima in just over one hour.
Accommodation: Guest House Hill Top/Mori No Hotel (or similar)
After breakfast, we embark on our last scenic train journey to Tokyo in a little over three hours with one change en route. We may catch a glimpse of Mount Fuji on the way, if weather conditions permit. We recommend buying a bento on the way for lunch as the journey is about three hours –the leader can advise.
After check-in at our hotel, you have a few hours to explore Tokyo before an optional farewell dinner.
Accommodation: Hotel Dormy Inn Kodenmacho (or similar)
The trip ends this morning after breakfast. For more information on returning home, see the Joining Instructions in the Trip Notes. Alternatively, if you’d like to spend a little longer exploring, speak to your sales representative about extending your stay.
Excellent Itinerary brilliant guide . Let down by some very poor accommodation . In one ,one toilet shared by about 8 ish . Tiny towels , small pillows full of some sort of bead . Futons very thin . Expensive single room supplement that was only available for 6 nights . Citing difficulty in finding accommodation ( Explore same itinerary single room available every night ) need for better accommodation not entitled . But long hikes , early starts lots of local transport , so element of tiredness.
Walking the Kumano Kodo , with snow patches between trees . Varied scenery . Walk through farms and villages with local produce stands . Peace of the temples .Most requiring quite a hike to get to .
Kouhei Nishida . Best guide ever . Nothing too much trouble . Sensible walking pace on the more challenging days . Always giving last person to arrive time to rest . Informative . Sorted queries quickly . And managed to keep group of 12 together despite public transport mishaps , ( us losing tickets , getting lost etc ! )
Hard to compare like with like . Explore about 2K cheaper for 12 days . Single rooms always available . And all have en-suite toilet . Probably not such a good guide
A Great two weeks in Japan. Great people friendly, very helpful and polite.
The Kumano Kudo was a little disappointing as there were very few spectacular views. 4 days walking 2 of which it rained consistently. The walk is mainly through dense woodlands so main view was trees. Onsens were great in most places but the two nights in the Sarashinaya Japanese Style Inn was very disappointing, a lot of traffic noise and the futon beds were very thin and uncomfortable, the onsen was in a poor state. The option to dig your own onsen by the river, not a great one when it is raining. Really not a great choice Exodus!
Our leader was very good but lacked some knowledge on the Nara area as he was from closer to Tokyo. Overall a good leader, very attentive to some customer excessive requirements. A very likeable chap.
Out of the 2 weeks (in May) it rained 2 days a week, and I mean rained non stop for 2 days so waterproofs a must, along with an umbrella. Other days were high twenties and at times very humid. You should be prepared for long steep climbs, head down and huff and puff to the top.
This was an excellent trip that we thoroughly enjoyed, giving an insight into contrasting landscapes/areas of Japan and to its culture and food. After initial exploration in and around Kyoto, the four days on the Kumano Kodo trail were quite demanding (particularly because it was so hot on our departure) but we got a fascinating insight into one of the more rural areas, staying in traditional Japanese hotels. A good proportion of the trail itself was in trees with occasional viewpoints and shrines, it also passed through villages and rural settings. The trails are well made and on some days the walking was long, as set out in the trip notes. The traditional Japanese food we ate every day was elaborate and carefully prepared – a bowl of sticky rice and an array of up to around 10 other small dishes of food for each person – at each meal, including breakfast; lunches were bento boxes. There was much fresh seafood by the sea. Travelling on the efficient Japanese public transport was interesting and enjoyable as it is indeed very punctual, but also uncrowded and generally very comfortable. The last couple of days in Tokyo were different again – a short time to get an impression, but as we are not really city people, this was fine.
The end of the Kumano Koda trail after four days of hard walking, with a fantastic temple and views to a high waterfall. We also enjoyed the pearl museum and learning about the Ama divers.
Hide, our leader, ensured the trip ran well which was no small feat give the numerous buses, trains and overnight stays that were required to complete our journey.
We went in early September and it was very hot (often over 30 degrees, a hang-over from the hot summer), and the walking was at the upper end of the moderate scale (give the heat). We found sticks important, particularly as the trail could be mossy and slippy after rain. Bring a swimming costume also – there’s opportunity for swimming in the sea as well as useful for the outdoor hot spring.
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