Discover João’s Portugal: Where Every Turn Tells a Story

"João Colaço didn’t plan to become a cycling guide. But four years after swapping his previous career for a life on two wheels in Portugal, he’s been named Exodus Adventure Travels’ Leader of the Year 2024 – and it’s easy to see why. There’s a kind of magic in his guiding approach: a meticulous blend..."

Kristen Whitla

Travel Copywriter

3rd Jun 2025

João Colaço didn’t plan to become a cycling guide. But four years after swapping his previous career for a life on two wheels in Portugal, he’s been named Exodus Adventure Travels’ Leader of the Year 2024 – and it’s easy to see why.

There’s a kind of magic in his guiding approach: a meticulous blend of planning, local knowledge, humour, and heartfelt hospitality. And it’s all delivered with the easy confidence of someone who’s been known to run the cycling route at sunrise, just to guarantee perfect conditions. Whether he’s leading our Porto to Lisbon Atlantic Ride or the Lisbon to Algarve Ride, João’s trips offer a distinctly personal take on Portugal’s coastal paths.

Born in Marinha Grande, a small town tucked inside a pine forest on Portugal’s central Atlantic coast, João grew up surrounded by trees, trails, and a deep love for the outdoors.

“My father was in the military,” he explains, “so since I was a kid, we were always running together. Whether it’s trail running, ultramarathons, or hikes in the Alps, the Pyrenees and Morocco, nature and sport have always been a big part of my life.”

That passion eventually led João to take a bold leap from a career in engineering into something more unpredictable – and infinitely more rewarding.

“A friend of mine, who I used to run ultramarathons with, was one of the owners of Portugal A-Z, a local operator who works closely with Exodus. One day we got to talking, and I said I’d love to run cycling tours in Portugal.”

That one conversation changed everything. Now entering his fourth season with Exodus, João has emerged as a tour leader who combines the best of both worlds: the precision of an engineer and the warmth of a seasoned storyteller. His days are spent guiding travellers along rugged coastlines and sleepy fishing villages, swapping spreadsheets for trail maps and our ‘Exodus teal’ Lycra.

When asked what he loves most about his job, João’s answer is a simple one. “Meeting people from all over the world, sharing experiences and showing off my beautiful country.”

And show it off he does, though never in a flashy way. João’s Portugal isn’t the touristy gloss of Lisbon postcards or posh Porto wine cruises. It’s the wind-ruffled pine forest where he ran as a boy. It’s the tiny taverna in Óbidos that doesn’t have a sign because, frankly, everyone in town already knows it’s there. It’s the bakery in Sítio da Nazaré called Terrace, where João insists they serve the best Portuguese custard tarts in the world. “Cinnamon on top is mandatory,” he adds, seriously. “It makes all the difference.”

João says he knows every route like the back of his hand now, but that doesn’t stop him from preparing each one meticulously. “Everything is very well planned. We test every adjustment to the route, we keep close contact with suppliers, restaurant owners… all those background details that the group might not see, they matter.”

On the rare occasion the weather doesn’t play along, João has a backup plan, and a backup plan for the backup plan. “The weather, we can’t control – but we can control how we respond. We’ll start earlier to beat the storm or change the schedule to visit something interesting nearby. Safety comes first, but we never forget the fun.”

João is full of fun surprises not listed in the Trip Notes. One favourite is the last-day visit to a tiny grocery-tavern across the street from the hotel in Óbidos – Portugal’s storybook medieval village with castle walls and cobbled alleys.

“It’s owned by Luís Filipe, fifth generation. There are no signs outside, just the delicious smell of cherry liqueur. I like to take the group in for a toast – to taste their locally sourced ginjinha before dinner. The shop hasn’t changed in over a hundred years. It’s like stepping into a time machine.”

And then there’s a very special moment, usually on the fifth day of our Porto to Lisbon Atlantic Ride, when João leads the group into his hometown of São Pedro de Moel. “We cycle right past my house, 20 metres away. I always tell guests, ‘Tomorrow we’ll arrive at the most beautiful beach village in the world.’ I am biased, of course.”

Biased, maybe, but not wrong. São Pedro de Moel is a windswept gem where pine trees meet the ocean and the air smells of salt and eucalyptus. It’s also where João opens his home to the group for a final toast of port wine and chocolate. “Sometimes my wife and young daughter are there too. It’s a pleasure for me to welcome people in. I really love where I live.”

It’s that genuine pride in place – and the way he shares it so effortlessly – that makes travelling with João feel less like a tour leader and more like being welcomed by an old friend. His daily briefings are legendary, offering guests not just logistical updates but restaurant tips, local anecdotes, and the occasional joke. He’s equally skilled at managing mixed-ability groups, creating a smooth rhythm for fast and slower cyclists alike. “We’re not racing,” he reminds them. “If you want to stretch your legs, go ahead. I’ll meet you at the roundabout in five kilometres.”

Even when the skies open and rain falls in sheets, João just rolls with it – literally. “I remember I was on a tour with a private group from the UK – and it just started pouring, like absolutely pouring. And instead of being upset, everyone just burst into fits of laughter and rode on. It turned into one of the group’s favourite memories – wet socks, fogged-up sunglasses, and all.”

You could say João finds joy in the smallest details, like visiting the tiny restaurant Volta e Meia in Figueira da Foz. Run by four friends, each of whom brought their own chairs to furnish the space at its opening, the restaurant has an eclectic collection of Portuguese trinkets and nostalgia. The desserts come served in jars, complete with handwritten messages on serviettes under the glass. “If a child comes in, they immediately bring paper and pencils. It’s that kind of place, one big community vibe,” João explains.

Alongside good restaurant tips, he brings context to the places you pass, with insights that stay with you long after the ride. One of his favourite stops is the 13th-century Saint Dominic’s Church in Lisbon, a fire-blackened relic of Portugal’s turbulent past. Today, the cracked pillars and soot-stained walls remain deliberately unrestored.

“It’s not just a church anymore,” he explains. “It’s a beautiful reminder of what Lisbon has endured and overcome – earthquakes, fires, politics, you name it. And yet, here it stands, candles flickering, with plenty of stories left to tell.”

So, what does it mean to be named Exodus Adventure Travels’ Leader of the Year? João pauses, smiles and says, “To be chosen among so many experienced leaders from all over the world is incredible. I’ve only been doing this job for four years. It gives me motivation to go on and do even better.”

There are easier ways to see Portugal, but none compare to the hum of tyres on tarmac, the coastal breeze on your face, and João up ahead with a grin and a plan. If you want to see Portugal through the eyes of someone who knows every twist in the trail, every hidden bakery, and the unmarked tavern in Óbidos worth toasting in, you’d be hard-pressed to find a better guide.

Discover João’s Portugal on selected departures of our Porto to Lisbon Atlantic Ride and Lisbon to Algarve Ride.