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Turtle, Ecuador

Reviews

Your Words – We tell it like it is! Holiday Reviews by previous Exodus travellers  

Here at Exodus we thrive on feedback from our customers. It’s the only way we can ensure our trips continue to be the best they can be. So, for the real tales, twists and turns of the trip you’re interested in, look no further than the reviews from our previous travellers.

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Reviews

Amazing Tiger sightings

We had a truly wonderful trip. The national parks were lovely with beautiful views. We were really lucky and had some wonderful tiger sightings as well as sloth bears & leopards & wild elephants. A large array of birds from different species of Eagles, Kingfishers, Owls and many more. We didn’t see tigers on every safari & sometimes would have different sightings to our other travel companions. In the last park we didn’t see a tiger until our last safari then we had 3 amazing close displays from them. The accomodation at the last lodge was by far the nicest. The drivers & guides on the safaris could really vary in English ability & knowledge. Obviously it was alot better when you had a good guide. The overnight train was interesting & we enjoyed it. The facilities were better than expected with western toilets. We took a dinner pack up from our hotel & bought drinks & snacks before getting on. Although there was some long travel days they didn’t feel ling. There was plenty of stops and things to see. Travel between was in comfortable Aircon suvs. If you want to see some amazing wildlife but also want abit of culture this trip is for you.

Most Inspirational Moment

The tiger scratching the tree by our jeep or the sloth bear digging for food. Or maybe the elephant charging us & speeding away

Thoughts on Group Leader

Krishna was amazing. He was so knowledgeable and looked after everything for us. He would rotate between the heating safari vehicles each trip & we were always happy when he was in ours as he was a lucky charm. Krishna became part of our group & a friend.

Advice for Potential Travellers

It's not Africa so don't expect to see the constant abundance of wildlife you did there. Go on each safari with an open mind & just enjoy the scenery & any animals you do spot, remember it's wild so if you spot a tiger, bear, leopard it's a big bonus! Take bite sprays we did get bite at the lodges in the evenings. The food was amazing. Breakfasts on safaris plentiful so we didn't need to buy lunches. Although limited can be abit hit and miss we could pay our bills by card at the lodges.

Suggestions

I felt you should be given the options of an optional something on arrival. Even if it's just arranging a tuk tuk to a local park. Some of us felt like we needed to keep going to stay in Indian time. So it was difficult having nothing on as a single traveller, not so easy to nap when sharing with a stranger at that point. It felt like the tour didn't really start until day 4 as day 3 was then just a travel day.

Appropriate

Comprehensive game drives in 3 tiger reserves, Pench, Kanha and Bandhavgarh

Most Inspirational Moment

Encountering a male tiger close up

Thoughts on Group Leader

Excellent, efficient and amusing throughout

Advice for Potential Travellers

Be prepared for cold starts so layer up although blankets are provided. Worth doing additional games drives on Wednesday afternoons when Parks are closed. Good guides and drivers who speak good English are at a premium so ask to keep good ones.

Suggestions

Picnic breakfasts disappointing in Pench and Bandhavgarh, would be better to offer either Indian or European alternative

Indian tiger safari

Would recommend this to anyone

Most Inspirational Moment

Seeing a tiger and other wild animal including leopards

Thoughts on Group Leader

Very Good

Advice for Potential Travellers

Go go go!

Suggestions

No

Wonderful variety of wildlife in stunning scenery

We went on the 15 prearranged game drives plus two extra ones at end January/start of February. We saw leopard at Pench on two drives, but not elsewhere. Saw tiger(s) at each of the three NPs on 7 of our 17 game drives, which is maybe fewer sightings than some other reports in April. What made this trip special for me was the overall variety of stunning wildlife & scenery. 18 different mammals seen & 81 different bird species. The variety of habitats with open grassland & wetland/freshwater greatly added to the interest.
The standard of accommodation was very good (except for the first night at the Bloom Hotel) even at the NP lodges, despite the terrible air pollution (see below).

Most Inspirational Moment

As reported by others the sightings of tiger & leopard were fabulous, but what I remember most is at the very end of our last game drive seeing a jungle cat near the NP exit (similar to a Scottish wildcat). Expect the unexpected. Also enjoyed seeing a pack of wild dogs hunting next to the track. Also saw jackal, gaur, various monkeys, various deer & antelope, wild boar, mongoose, squirrel, tree shrew & tortoise. It is a great trip for ornithologists. We saw various species of kingfisher, vulture, eagle, kite, buzzard, owl, cuckoo, nightjar, hornbill, stork, woodpecker, shrike, oriole etc etc.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Krishna was fantastic. He is an expert ornithologist & photographer, great at spotting & identifying the wildlife. Extremely knowledgeable about the wildlife & culture and always ready & willing to pass on his passion, knowledge & expertise. The trip was very well organised & professionally run. He was always patient & ever helpful combined with a great sense of humour. He is a star. I particularly enjoyed the extra events which Krishna arranged & lead eg the guided walk at Pench NP, the visit to the local village at Kanha NP & the filmshow about Bandhavgarh NP.

Advice for Potential Travellers

Being January/early February it was extremely cold travelling in the open topped jeeps early in the morning eg 5am. I wore 5 layers and was still cold (t-shirt, shirt, jumper, fleece, jacket plus hat, scarf, gloves). Each accommodation hands out a blanket, but I needed two and sometimes there were not enough blankets for everyone to have two each. The tracks in each NP are very dusty. The villages around the accommodation and near the NP entrances cook using open wood fires, which makes the air condition very polluted. Delhi is appalling for smog in winter. Therefore I wore a facemask quite often and wish that I had brought a balaclava. It helps to wear a windproof jacket in the jeep, but one you don't mind getting covered in dust. Earplugs are necessary not just for the overnight train, but also in the lodges because on some nights there was loud music & drumming coming from adjacent properties. Krishna arranged for a foreign exchange company to come to our hotel on the first night of the tour and he exchanged various currencies into Indian rupees at a very good rate for us, which was a great help and saved us having to find a foreign exchange place ourselves. We didn't change money at the airport due to the poor rates on offer. For the local flight from Delhi to Nagpur, Krishna was fantastic because he managed to combine all our luggage together in a way which balanced out the overweight bags with the underweight ones so that no excess luggage fees were paid, despite our luggage being significantly overweight! We added on an extra night stay in Delhi at the start & at the end. This helped with getting over the jet lag at the start and gave us extra time for sightseeing at the end. The mosquitoes were worst at Pench NP but also occurred at the other two NPs. Several group members had quite a few bites, but we didn't take malaria pills and we appear to be none the worse. The additional game drive at Pench was a waste of time & money because we saw very little. However the extra game drive at Bandhavgarh NP was fantastic because we saw a beautiful sector which others didn't go to and we had great sightings of tiger. When the guide sat at the front of the jeep and I was in the back row (or vice-versa), I had difficulty hearing what the guide was saying. Therefore I found it best to sit in the middle row because my hearing is not so good anymore.

Suggestions

FAO EXODUS. I have given this trip 4 stars instead of 5 stars for the following reasons: We were sent vouchers for staying an extra night at the Deventure Hotel at the start, but the day before we flew out we were advised that the first night had been changed to the Bloom Hotel, which is much inferior and rather like Faulty Towers. In the first room they put us in the shower room floor was flooded by a leaking pipe. In the second room the door wouldn't lock. Breakfast was poor. This hotel is not of the required standard. Unfortunately I haven't had a satisfactory explanation from Exodus as to why we were moved. My health at the end of this trip was significantly worse than at the start due to the very poor air condition in Delhi and in the villages near each NP. I used a facemask. I suggest that the trip notes should mention that the air quality is poor and that a facemask could be beneficial. In the grounds of some of the NP lodges ground staff were burning leaves and there were open wood fires. This added to the poor air quality & isn't good environmentally. Should it be discouraged by Exodus? When we got on the overnight train I discovered that my seat/bed was double booked and claimed by a stranger. Thankfully Krishna sorted it out and I got another bed. The foreign exchange company were very helpful on the first night at the hotel, but they didn't give out any receipts. Please would Krishna remind them in future to give out receipts? The Nature Heritage Resort at Bandhavgarh didn't label their dishes at the evening meal, whereas the other two lodges did so. Could this resort be encouraged to do so? Despite Krishna telling us that we would be moved around in the jeeps so that we didn't always share all the game drives with the same trip members, this switching happened very little. We shared a jeep ride with only around a third of the other trip members. The jeeps are open with no seat belts and some tracks are very bumpy. Sometimes the jeep drivers drive too fast and I was in danger of being thrown out of the jeep. On at least three occasions our or other jeeps drove up to where a tiger was and it then got up and moved back into the bushes. Occasionally there were up to 20 jeeps chasing a tiger with too much noise & chatter, which caused disturbance & isn't good. Perhaps the number of jeep licences should be decreased further? The trip notes could be improved as follows: Krishna mentioned an app for identifying the local bird species. Could this app be mentioned in the trip notes? In the list of essential equipment I suggest that a sweater & fleece are both needed, not one or the other. I suggest bringing a scarf and bandanna as well as a warm hat &/or balaclava. Under the section on extra expenses, it states that money change facilities are available at the hotel in Nagpur. This is untrue because we didn't stay in a hotel in Nagpur! It should explain that a money exchange company will come to the hotel in Delhi and that their exchange rates are very good and that a receipt should be produced. Krishna mentioned the scheme 'pack with a purpose' whereby excess clothes could be brought by trip members and given to local guides. This is a great idea. Could this info be added to the trip notes?

Review Centre
Reply from Exodus

Thank you for taking the time to share your thoughts with us and we were thrilled to learn that you had such an enjoyable time in India overall, with plentiful wildlife sightings. We are also grateful for your suggestions, as we rely on our customers’ feedback to improve our tours for future groups. Addressing some of your specific points, we, regrettably, had to make a last-minute change to one of your hotels as we discovered that our usual property was hosting a wedding that coincided with your dates, with late night celebrations planned. We always endeavour to replace hotels with others of a similar standard, so we are sorry that the Bloom fell below your expectations in several areas. Though we don’t anticipate using it often, we have raised your concerns with the management team and hope this will prevent similar issues for future guests. Next, we appreciate that our customers enjoy rotating between the jeeps during the game drives, so we were sorry to hear that this did not happen particularly often on your tour. We secure the vehicles four months before a departure, to ensure availability, and our local team decides who to place together. Though there is some scope to move these people around on each drive, as they are all on the same booking, anyone who books after this process has been done cannot switch as they are treated as a separate booking and strict park rules prevent bookings from mixing. We take our commitments to responsible travel extremely seriously, so we were concerned to learn that you felt there were too many vehicles tracking tigers and that the noise and nature of the driving disturbed the animals. In recent years, Indian authorities have significantly reduced the number of available permits, thus limiting traffic within national parks, and closely monitor their activity using trackers and speed recorders. Though drivers will occasionally speed to a possible sighting, our leaders always inform them in advance to be respectful to the national park and are careful to ensure they do not exceed any speed limits or take unnecessary risks with our customers on board. Finally, we hugely appreciate your comments about our trip notes, as we like to keep our literature as up-to-date as possible, and we have made amendments regarding face coverings, the bird identification app, clothing required for cooler temperatures and money exchange. We will also be adding information about the ‘pack with a purpose’ scheme as this is something we are rolling out on all our trips. We hope this shows you that we have listened to your feedback, and we very much look forward to, hopefully, welcoming you back on another adventure soon!

 

Sarah Puttnam, Product Manager

If I had boxes this trip would tick all of them

Exceptionally well organised trip with a good standard of accomodation throughout. The focus on maximising the chance of seeing tigers in three different parks meant there was a good balance between spending time wildlife viewing, seeing a variety of habitats and having a cultural experience of India. There was a much higher density/abundance of other wildlife than I had expected which was also a real pleasure to see.

Most Inspirational Moment

Being stared at by a giant orange cat!

Thoughts on Group Leader

Krishna was everything you could wish for in a guide; experienced, knowlegable, approachable, patient, honest and good fun.

Advice for Potential Travellers

Yes, the tigers are absolutely amazing but there is far more to experience and enjoy on this trip; the sounds and smells of the jungle and the villages, amazing food, friendly welcoming prople and a whole lots of wildlife besides tigers. Be prepared for a lot of dust and some cold mornings (travelling in Nov) India has a large population and there is now a huge amount of domestic tourism - The experience of being on a jeep with dozens of other other jeeps all jostling to get a glimpse of a tiger or two can be a culture shock and very different to an ideal of trundling quietly through an ecosystem hoping to see a tiger undisturbed in its natural environment. However, these apex preditors seem undetered by daily views of diesel stinking humans and the balance between tourism and protection is more careful balanced than it can superficially appear.

Suggestions

This trip could turn you into a cat lady (or man) if you're not already!

Tiger Heaven

I’ve seen lots of wildlife all over the world but the buzz you get seeing a Tiger is up there with the best. Traveling in what many see as the peak Tiger viewing period of April, I was lucky enough to come across 20 individuals, some fleeting, some ridiculously close. The supporting cast of other wildlife is also impressive. If you would like to see why, check out my video of the trip – https://youtu.be/1DJV8K421dA

Most Inspirational Moment

Seeing a tiger suddenly appear out of the Jungle and then melt back into it. Early on in the trip we had one Tiger road crossing where we were the only Jeep there, will remember the Tigress stopping for a few seconds to look at us. Seeing Tigers is something different, you hear the alarm calls of the deer so you know there is a Tiger or Leopard somewhere nearby, but it's only by the skill of the guides second-guessing the Tiger's possible movement and a slice of luck which will result in a sighting. Sometimes you will join a large group of jeeps at a spot, sometimes you will find your own hopefully.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Krisha is the best, he has been doing this for several years now but still has the same excitement we had and knew his stuff.

Advice for Potential Travellers

Most has been covered in the other reviews, Jeep Envy (I didn't see a Sloth bear, the other Jeep did!) but I'm sure it all pans out. Yes, it can be pot luck on the guides you get and one left me very frustrated. Just try to accept it is what it is and help them find the wildlife. Be prepared for very early starts so you catch the golden hour. We were getting up at around 0430 and getting back around 11 am in the morning slots but soon learned to have a siesta before the meet-up again at 1530. It's not like Africa where you tend to see lots of animals, you have to seek them out so patience is needed. You may go a while and not see a lot, then a roosting Owl lifts the spirits as an example.

Suggestions

If like me, you haven't been to India before, maybe go out a day early and do a full Delhi city tour. On the way back on the trip, you will probably only have a few hours in the afternoon in Delhi so barely scratch the surface. I had a full day at the start of the trip and did most of the major sites and was well worth it.

A Fabulous Trip - Tigers and more

Angela was on our trip – I do not really feel that I need to add anything to her post. Just that it is a FABULOUS TRIP. Go with the flow and enjoy. Experience the anticipation of spotting the animals, birds etc. See everything as a bonus- you are travelling into their environment.

Most Inspirational Moment

Seeing the tigers and leopards - it can get quite emotional when you seeing them walking towards and past your vehicles. The trip to the Taj Mahal - was very busy but worth it. We dressed up for it as had spent so long in dusty safari clothes

Thoughts on Group Leader

Krishna - was a fabulous - a very knowledge and informative guide. he helped make the trip

Advice for Potential Travellers

We took plugs for India and a USB charging block which served us well. As Angela mentioned the card machines sometimes didn't work so take plenty of cash. Most hotels and lodges exchanged GB pounds but the rates could be variable. Take dust covers for your cameras - and lens cleaning stuff. Plenty of batteries and SD cards! you can get carried away on the Tiger and leopard sightings. Plus phones/ Small video recorders to record the moments when the tiger walks towards you. Travel in the safari jeeps can be very dusty and also very bumpy. Take plenty of tissues and hand sanitizer. Swimming costumes - most of the lodges have a small pool you can cool off in.

Suggestions

Try and experience some of the sightings through your eyes and not through the lens! Hard I know as always trying to get the perfect shot but it is well worth it. Especially if you get to experience the animals behaviour and their interactions with each other. Just go for it - you will not be disappointed.

Tigers, Leopards and So Much More

What an amazing holiday! We were incredibly lucky with our sightings, not only of tigers but also of leopards (I think our group had 6 individual leopard sighting by the end), wild elephants, Indian Wild Dogs, jackals and the most fabulous array of colourful birds (peacocks, rollers, eagles, vultures – the list is long!). As has been mentioned in previous reviews, there are things to be aware of with the trip, but providing your participate with your eyes open, patience and the right attitude, you will have an absolutely wonderful time: 1) Jeeps are assigned per national park, so the people you share the jeep with will remain the same throughout that national park. Our jeeps were changed up between the parks, so we had three different jeep combinations by the end. 2) If you have one jeep which is not full, the Exodus guide tends to stick in that jeep due to space and comfort. Whilst this is understandable, it does mean that some group members had much more access to the trip leader and his expertise compared to others. 3) Do not expect tigers on every drive or even every day. They can be very elusive and with all things in nature, nothing is guaranteed. We had our first tiger sighting on Drive 2 (one jeep had an amazing view of two separate tigers, the other three jeeps had much lesser views of one tiger). We then did not get another good tiger sighting until Drive 8. And then on Drive 10, the tigers decided to give the most amazing show, with 6 tigers in one day. There was a point when we were leaving Pench where we were joking that we would have to rename the trip ‘India Leopard Safari’, as my jeep had had 3 good leopard sightings and only one glimpse of the backside / ears of a tiger, but by the end of the holiday, the tigers were most definitely the star of the show. 4) As has been mentioned before, it can be difficult when the different jeeps are in different sectors of the parks and thus seeing different things. On our trip, one jeep got two incredible sightings on Day 1, whereas with the different jeep allocations between parks, it took until the very end of the holiday for two members of our group to have an equivalent amazing sighting. Some members did not get a good leopard sighting at all, whereas other jeeps got two or three. It really is just luck and you have to go with the knowledge that each person’s experience will be different. 5) There is so much more to see than just the tigers, so it is important to not get hung up on just seeing them. You can go for days without a glimpse of stripes, so take the time to appreciate the beauty of the parks and the other incredible wildlife that is available. 6) The success of the safari drives can be rather dependent on the quality of the park-assigned driver and guides, some of whom are better than others. I think that every jeep in our group had issues with their driver / guides at some point; however as these change almost every day, you just have to put it behind you and focus on the next drive. Thankfully, with 15+ drives, there is plenty of time for everyone to have the amazing encounters and experiences within the parks.

Most Inspirational Moment

Seeing the five tigers (mum, three cubs and a young male) in the waterhole at Banghavgarh was truly something special. Watching them interact and relax in the water, before coming out and walking right past our jeep was an experience I will never forget. Driving around the corner in Kanha NP and finding a leopard casually wandering down the side of the road, before crossing right in front of us and disappearing into the trees. We were the only jeep around lucky enough to witness the beautiful big cat just going about his business, thoroughly unconcerned by us. Our guide was so excited by the sighting, as leopards are very rarely seen in Kanha, which really added to the experience. Watching the pack of Indian Wild Dogs with puppies in Kahna NP, playing in the water and on the road in front of us, before heading into the trees to jump around on some fallen logs.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Krishna was absolutely fabulous. His knowledge and passion for the country and wildlife was obvious and he went out of his way to ensure that we all had an amazing time on the trip and all got to experience that magical moment of the first tiger sighting. He was always in good humour and was ready to answer our questions and provide plenty of additional information on the areas and conservation activities going on around the national parks.

Advice for Potential Travellers

1) Take buffs for your face and your camera equipment - the roads, especially in Bandhavgarh, are very dusty. 2) Go with the right attitude - there is more to see than just tigers and you will get out of the drives what you put in. 3) Take lots of bug spray and put it on under your clothes in the afternoon - the insects bit through clothing, especially in Pench NP. Non-DEET sprays like Incognito work well on the insects there. 4) European plug adapters worked everywhere we went. 5) Card machines did not work in all the resorts, so ensure you have cash available as well. ATMs stops can be made on the travel days between the parks. 6) Even in April, a light fleece and rain jacket were beneficial. It can be chilly in the mornings, and two of our drives were pretty much a wash-out from the rain. The jeeps are open-top, so if it rains you will be getting wet. 7) There are a lot of early mornings (4.30am early) and bumpy rides (really not suitable for anyone with a bad back). Although the trip is rated leisurely, it is not really relaxing.

Suggestions

The train trip was absolutely fine and really nothing to worry about. I probably got the most sleep I had on the whole holiday on that train (a solid eight hours!).

Tigers WOW!

We had such a good holiday, it was wonderful seeing tigers in their natural environment and visiting the Red Fort and the Taj Mahal at the end of the holidays was a special experience. There were only 6 of us in our group and our fellow travellers were lovely friendly people and we all got on well. Our trip started a day later than usual because of Diwali so we didn’t get the chance to do an optional game drive (we’d have done a 16th drive just to maximise any tiger sightings) as Bandhavgarh park is closed on Wednesday afternoon so our 15th drive was on the Thursday morning before leaving for the train. And, again because of the day’s delay, we went to the Taj at sunrise rather than at sunset and were treated to a beautiful blue sky and lovely light. We saw tigers on our very first game drive, a mother and her cubs were resting on rocks at a bit of a distance but easily spottable once we got our “eye” in. We saw a glimpse of a stripey back on drive 2 but then nothing tiger-wise until drive 8 when a magnificent male briefly stepped out in front of our jeep before melting back into the bush. We saw a leopard in the far distance on drive 14 and then on drive 15 at the very last minute we had a tiger dash past all the waiting jeeps into the bush. The other jeep with our fellow travellers had a wonderful tiger sighting in Bandhavgarh (the jeeps did different zones) and, I must admit, it’s hard not to be envious when others have an experience that you don’t. We were happy for them but…..

Most Inspirational Moment

Seeing tigers, especially when the sightings were so hard-won. A pair of wild dogs following our jeep was also special and sitting underneath an Indian Roller preening herself in the sunshine and flashing her beautiful iridescent feathers made for an excellent photo-op.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Himanshu (Bagde) was just the best group leader. He was professional, charming and cheerful at all times and worked tirelessly to ensure our holiday went without a hitch. What he doesn't know about tigers and photographing them isn't worth knowing. He took us to the local village so that we could see the Diwali celebrations and we also visited the market in full swing which was an interesting experience. He looked after us and made sure we had the best experiences possible on our holiday.

Advice for Potential Travellers

Although this is classed as a "leisurely" holiday as you don't actually walk anywhere, it is full-on as every drive day starts before dawn and the jeep rides in the parks are extremely bumpy (not a trip for anyone with a bad back!). It was also cold early in the morning (November) so warm jackets were needed until the sun came up. There is downtime between morning and afternoon drives which we used to rest rather than have lunch as you get plenty of eat for bush breakfast. Lunch is Indian buffet-style at the lodges but there is the chance to go a la carte and order omelettes/fried eggs if preferred. Tipping is an art-form in India so a group kitty managed by the group leader is definitely the way to go, it made life so much easier. We changed money up at Nagpur airport after landing, you get fleeced on the exchange rate but there really isn't an opportunity to change up sterling after the airport as you don't hit a city until the very end of the holiday and, obviously, the rural villages don't have ATMs. Shops air-side at Delhi airport on the way home take rupees (contrary to what we had read) but as rupees are a restricted currency you need to change them up pre-security if you'd don't want to spend them. Prices air-side are typical of airports world-wide, not Indian prices. You need to carry your passport on all game drives as they are taken and checked against the register of who's in which jeep. Do not take a bag/handbag to the Taj Mahal as you have to put it through a security scanner and then leave it to go through the separate frisk queue which can take some time and you can't see where your bag has got to. Put your camera round your neck and your valuables securely in your pocket and you'll be able to bypass the scanner queue. You can take a bag to the Red Fort as it's checked manually rather than through scanners. The local people in small towns (and on game drives) will ask to be photographed with you. Most people were upfront and friendly about this so it really isn't a problem, just smile and go along with the experience. Some people were a little more sneaky, filming "surreptitiously" but as you'll never see their photos/videos ever again it doesn't matter. The train to Agra is an experience but one that shouldn't put anyone off this holiday. We were in 2nd-class sleeper berths, the bedding and (western-style) toilet were clean although the beds were rather hard. Some of the group slept, some didn't. We were grouped together so, apart from people passing by doing a double-take on seeing us, we weren't disturbed once the curtains around the bunks were closed. Luggage is stowed under the bottom bunk and a packed dinner was provided by the lodge to eat on the train as you really do not want to purchase food from the vendors at the station. After the peace of the countryside the train is full-on India so is a good addition to the holiday. All the hotels used were all of a good standard, no-one got ill on our trip, just a few rumblings due to innards getting used to curries at every meal. We were told when water was filtered and drinkable (the water at Bandhavgarh smells strongly of iron so bottled water is provided). Wine was expensive, soft drinks and beer were cheaper options.

Suggestions

Don't expect to see tigers so that when you do it's a bonus. Tigers can melt into the bush surprisingly easily for big animals. Remember to just relax and enjoy the beauty of the jungle and the other animals rather than focussing just on wanting a tiger/leopard (the leopards are more elusive than the tigers!) and have a good time.

Tigers WOW!

We had such a good holiday, it was wonderful seeing tigers in their natural environment and visiting the Red Fort and the Taj Mahal at the end of the holidays was a special experience. There were only 6 of us in our group and our fellow travellers were lovely friendly people and we all got on well. Our trip started a day later than usual because of Diwali so we didn’t get the chance to do an optional game drive (we’d have done a 16th drive just to maximise any tiger sightings) as Bandhavgarh park is closed on Wednesday afternoon so our 15th drive was on the Thursday morning before leaving for the train. And, again because of the day’s delay, we went to the Taj at sunrise rather than at sunset and were treated to a beautiful blue sky and lovely light. We saw tigers on our very first game drive, a mother and her cubs were resting on rocks at a bit of a distance but easily spottable once we got our “eye” in. We saw a glimpse of a stripey back on drive 2 but then nothing tiger-wise until drive 8 when a magnificent male briefly stepped out in front of our jeep before melting back into the bush. We saw a leopard in the far distance on drive 14 and then on drive 15 at the very last minute we had a tiger dash past all the waiting jeeps into the bush. The other jeep with our fellow travellers had a wonderful tiger sighting in Bandhavgarh (the jeeps did different zones) and, I must admit, it’s hard not to be envious when others have an experience that you don’t. We were happy for them but…..

Most Inspirational Moment

Seeing tigers, especially when the sightings were so hard-won. A pair of wild dogs following our jeep was also special and sitting underneath an Indian Roller preening herself in the sunshine and flashing her beautiful iridescent feathers made for an excellent photo-op.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Himanshu (Bagde) was just the best group leader. He was professional, charming and cheerful at all times and worked tirelessly to ensure our holiday went without a hitch. What he doesn't know about tigers and photographing them isn't worth knowing. He took us to the local village so that we could see the Diwali celebrations and we also visited the market in full swing which was an interesting experience. He looked after us and made sure we had the best experiences possible on our holiday.

Advice for Potential Travellers

Although this is classed as a "leisurely" holiday as you don't actually walk anywhere, it is full-on as every drive day starts before dawn and the jeep rides in the parks are extremely bumpy (not a trip for anyone with a bad back!). It was also cold early in the morning (November) so warm jackets were needed until the sun came up. There is downtime between morning and afternoon drives which we used to rest rather than have lunch as you get plenty of eat for bush breakfast. Lunch is Indian buffet-style at the lodges but there is the chance to go a la carte and order omelettes/fried eggs if preferred. Tipping is an art-form in India so a group kitty managed by the group leader is definitely the way to go, it made life so much easier. We changed money up at Nagpur airport after landing, you get fleeced on the exchange rate but there really isn't an opportunity to change up sterling after the airport as you don't hit a city until the very end of the holiday and, obviously, the rural villages don't have ATMs. Shops air-side at Delhi airport on the way home take rupees (contrary to what we had read) but as rupees are a restricted currency you need to change them up pre-security if you'd don't want to spend them. Prices air-side are typical of airports world-wide, not Indian prices. You need to carry your passport on all game drives as they are taken and checked against the register of who's in which jeep. Do not take a bag/handbag to the Taj Mahal as you have to put it through a security scanner and then leave it to go through the separate frisk queue which can take some time and you can't see where your bag has got to. Put your camera round your neck and your valuables securely in your pocket and you'll be able to bypass the scanner queue. You can take a bag to the Red Fort as it's checked manually rather than through scanners. The local people in small towns (and on game drives) will ask to be photographed with you. Most people were upfront and friendly about this so it really isn't a problem, just smile and go along with the experience. Some people were a little more sneaky, filming "surreptitiously" but as you'll never see their photos/videos ever again it doesn't matter. The train to Agra is an experience but one that shouldn't put anyone off this holiday. We were in 2nd-class sleeper berths, the bedding and (western-style) toilet were clean although the beds were rather hard. Some of the group slept, some didn't. We were grouped together so, apart from people passing by doing a double-take on seeing us, we weren't disturbed once the curtains around the bunks were closed. Luggage is stowed under the bottom bunk and a packed dinner was provided by the lodge to eat on the train as you really do not want to purchase food from the vendors at the station. After the peace of the countryside the train is full-on India so is a good addition to the holiday. All the hotels used were all of a good standard, no-one got ill on our trip, just a few rumblings due to innards getting used to curries at every meal. We were told when water was filtered and drinkable (the water at Bandhavgarh smells strongly of iron so bottled water is provided). Wine was expensive, soft drinks and beer were cheaper options.

Suggestions

Don't expect to see tigers so that when you do it's a bonus. Tigers can melt into the bush surprisingly easily for big animals. Remember to just relax and enjoy the beauty of the jungle and the other animals rather than focussing just on wanting a tiger/leopard (the leopards are more elusive than the tigers!) and have a good time.