We booked this trip to celebrate my 70th birthday, aware that it included some long days on rough bumpy roads and a couple of challenging walks. I am very fit for my age but did find the itinerary very intense, with numerous early morning starts (a 6:15 alarm felt like a lie in for us!) and little time for relaxation or recovery (apart from the free day in Swakopmund, when we declined all the optional activities). The walk in Brandberg was difficult underfoot, with lots of rocks to negotiate and boulders to scramble over, with the potential to twist an ankle with each step; we were rewarded by the sight of cave paintings dating over 2,000 years, which fascinated me but may not be to everyone’s interest. The walking trail at Waterberg is even more challenging, and nobody in our group completed it (one couple went part of the way up); most opted for a game drive that took us onto the plateau, and we were fortunate to come upon a group of giraffes at a waterhole / salt lick at close quarters, but otherwise there was little to see on the drive. I would have liked to have experienced and learned more about the history and culture of the country. Waterberg is a place of great significance in the Herero genocide and I think time could have been better spent exploring its historical aspects (there is a German cemetery there but we had no time to visit it), instead of the walking trail or the optional game drive. And the brief encounter with Himba and Herero people on day 7 was merely a photo and shopping opportunity (you had to pay to take photos – I declined – and nobody in our group bothered with the market stalls); I would have preferred to have spent time seeing their village and learning about their culture and history.
That’s the negative aspects of the trip dealt with. On the positive side, Namibia is a country of contrasting landscapes, each of them impressive in its own way: red ochre sand dunes, lunar landscapes, vast open plains and grasslands, strange granite outcrops, desolate mountains, limitless horizons … and the grandeur of the Waterberg Plateau, a table top mountain fringed with bare granite and best appreciated from below and a short distance away. We saw a variety of wildlife along the way, and a good deal in Etosha, although the recent rains after a three year drought meant that game was hard to spot in the tall grass and vegetation that had sprung up; we saw no leopards, briefly glimpsed a few cheetahs (although we got up close to a group in the cheetah conservatory early in the trip), and spotted the head of a lone male lion resting in the long grass and watching us for a short moment. But we had some amazing encounters with elephants, giraffes, wildebeest and zebra, and saw many different antelopes and other fauna. Unfortunately the flamingos had left Walvis Bay, and the desert elephants were no longer in the valley at Brandberg, which was disappointing. Wildlife watching is mostly a matter of luck, and nothing is guaranteed.The best wildlife encounter was the rhino safari at the end of the trip, when we walked to within 20 feet of three white rhino at Eagle’s Rest; an unforgettable experience.
There were many other interesting sights and experiences along the way: countless giant ground crickets, almost everywhere we went; walking through the Sesriem Canyon ; old German colonial architecture in Swakopmund; eating apple strudel and ice cream at Anton’s Cafe; the Zeila wreck on the Skeleton Coast; pet meerkats in Brandberg White Lady Lodge.
