Mexico: Mayans, Aztecs & Conquistadors Day of the Dead Festival (Romerillo)

Welcome to Mexico City, a pulsating capital that would take a lifetime to fully explore (though we see some of the many highlights over the next couple of days). We gather at the hotel today, with a welcome meeting this evening: the perfect opportunity to get to know each other a little and ask any questions you may have.

Accommodation: Hotel Royal Reforma (or similar)

Those on the group flights normally arrive in Mexico City in the evening. Land only passengers can arrive at any time.

Accommodation: Hotel Royal Reforma (or similar)

Today we head to the ancient city of Teotihuacan, which reached its zenith around 1,000CE when it was the sixth biggest city in the world (population: about 125,000). Among the avenues and structures here are the pyramids of the Sun and the Moon, the third and fourth largest pyramids in the world. We explore this impressive archaeological zone with an expert local guide to unearth the secrets of the site.

Returning to Mexico City, we visit the historic centre on a walking tour based around the Zocalo (main square) and the Catedral Metropolitana. Our exploration starts in the main square, one of the biggest in the world; it was an important gathering place for the Aztecs, and remains so in modern Mexico, often hosting book fairs and concerts. On the north side is the Catedral Metropolitana, the largest cathedral in the Americas. It was built over El Templo Mayor, an Aztec temple, as a show of Spanish power. Our tour finishes outside the magnificent Palacio de Bellas Artes, an art nouveau masterpiece with a facade made of Carrara marble.

Accommodation: Hotel Royal Reforma (or similar)

Today we explore the bohemian side of Mexico City. We start by heading south to Casa Azul, a house hidden behind cobalt-blue walls. This is where the acclaimed artist Frida Kahlo was born, grew up and, eventually, lived with her muralist husband Diego Rivera until her death in 1954. Now a museum, the colonial house showcases the collections and personal effects of the two great artists and provides a window into the life of affluent Mexican bohemians in the first half of the 20^th century.

Next, we visit the quaint neighbourhood of Coyoacán, which has pebbled streets, colonial churches, bustling little markets and quiet squares. This area was inhabited before the arrival of the Spanish and it is said that conquistador Hernan Cortes made it the first capital of New Spain.

Finally, we enjoy a relaxing ride on a pre-Hispanic boat along the peaceful waters of the Xochimilco canals. These scenic waterways were used by the Aztecs and today see us enjoying a relaxing journey past floating gardens and little floating kitchens selling local food.

We return to our hotel in the late afternoon.

Accommodation: Hotel Royal Reforma (or similar)

Visit the Museum of Anthropology and History; onto Puebla

Before leaving Mexico City, we visit the Museum of Anthropology and History, which has an impressive collection of artefacts from the many civilisations of Mexico.

We then start our journey east, heading to Puebla (about 3hr 30min), a city known for having an exquisite gastronomic heritage and fine artisanal traditions, including the sought-after talavera pottery. We arrive in the colonial city in the late afternoon.

Accommodation: Hotel Colonial Puebla (or similar)

We spend this morning discovering Puebla, visiting the Patio de los Azulejos and the ex-Convent of Santa Rosa, both of which provide classic examples of how talavera tiles were incorporated into buildings, inside and out. Early settlers who came from Talavera de la Reina in Spain introduced these tiles and associated ceramics. Today the glazed pottery has become synonymous with Puebla.

After our tour, we drive to Oaxaca (about five hours). With a colonial centre of shaded pedestrian streets, indigenous traditions and a creative atmosphere, Oaxaca has attracted and inspired many artists and artisans.

The city has a beautiful zocalo (main square), cathedral and the vast Convento de Santo Domingo, along with museums, fascinating markets and charming inns.

Accommodation: Hotel Oaxaca Real or Hotel Victoria

Our next exploration of Mexican history takes us to the Zapotecan site of Monte Alban. While the name dates to a 16th-century Spanish landowner, previous names come from the Mixtec word sahandevul (at the foot of the sky) or the Zapotecan danibaan (sacred mountain).

In 500 BCE, the Zapotecs moved into the Oaxaca region and began the monumental task of levelling the top of a 5,250ft (1,600m) high mountain that intersects and divides three valleys. Here they built the city of Monte Alban with a maze of subterranean passageways, rooms, drainage and water-storage systems.

We later return to Oaxaca and explore cobbled streets, vibrant squares and churches. We also visit the Museum of Cultures Santo Domingo.

Accommodation: Hotel Oaxaca Real or Hotel Victoria

Oaxaca is possibly the most famed region in Mexico for its cuisine and we get more acquainted with it as we head for a cooking class, learning dishes that can easily be recreated at home. The exact menu can change but we generally learn how to make two types of tortilla, three salsas, guacamole, mole, a starter, soup, desert and drink. We visit a local market where different ingredients are showcased before returning to the restaurant for our class and a succulent lunch.

The afternoon is free to wander around Oaxaca on your own.

Accommodation: Hotel Oaxaca Real or Hotel Victoria

A short distance from Oaxaca is the village of Teotitlan del Valle known for its colourful, handwoven rugs. From here, we continue to the Don Agave distillery to taste the agave-derived spirit mezcal. After the tasting, we drive to Tehuantepec, where we spend the night (total drive time: about seven hours plus stops).

Accommodation: Hotel Calli (or similar)

We drive (about six hours plus stops) to San Cristobal de las Casas – or just San Cristobal – one of the most popular cities in Mexico with visitors. It is filled with cobblestone alleys of whitewashed buildings with red-tiled roofs that lead to plazas and picturesque arcades.

Arriving in San Cristobal in the afternoon, we have a short orientation tour of the historic city before checking into our hotel.

Accommodation: Hotel Casa Mexicana or Hotel Diego Mazariegos

Today is a free day to explore San Cristobal at your own pace. Wander the colonial streets, take in the lively cafes, or buy handicrafts produced by the local Tzotzil indigenous groups with their different colourful dress. It’s also possible to take an optional boat trip through the Sumidero Canyon and/or visit one of the traditional Mayan communities who live in the villages surrounding the city (see money section for prices).

Accommodation: Hotel Casa Mexicana or Hotel Diego Mazariegos

Day of the Dead is possibly the most vibrant and colourful tribute to human mortality there is. Mexicans honour the dead, especially close relatives, by visiting graves and congregating around headstones to lay edible offerings alongside mounds of golden marigolds.

To fully immerse ourselves in the festival, we visit cemeteries around San Cristobal to see altars and tributes and plan to visit markets and bakeries selling ornaments and Day of the Dead essentials – a great chance to sample specialities only on offer at this time of year.

Our day also includes time in Romerillo, a Chamulan village where the Day of the Dead traditions haven’t changed in many years – providing us with a very authentic Day of the Dead experience.

Traditionally, 31 October is for cleaning graves. They are made to look fresh and planks of wood are placed on top to represent doors.

On 1 November, the festivities begin. Offerings are made to the dead, typically their favourite food and drink, while the ‘doors’ are opened so friends and family can have conversations with their loved ones. There is mourning but also smiles and laughter – the experience is overwhelmingly life affirming and uplifting.

In Romerillo, the cemetery is also covered with huge blue wooden crosses decorated in chrysanthemums, which makes for a very colourful view.

Accommodation: Hotel Casa Mexicana or Hotel Diego Mazariegos

The road we take towards Palenque is very windy but picturesque. En route, we visit the waterfalls of Agua Azul (after about 5hr 30 min of driving plus stops). Agua Azul is a group of beautiful waterfalls, protected since 1980, that create wonderful natural pools. Due to the strong and unpredictable currents, we do not recommend swimming here.

Following a stop at the falls, it’s a further 2hr 30min to Palenque, a town named after the impressive nearby ruins.

Accommodation: Hotel La Aldea del Halach Huinic (or similar)

Emerging from the jungles of Chiapas is one of the most impressive ruins in Mexico: the Mayan site of Palenque. The temples, sanctuaries and pyramids, with their sculptured walls and ceilings, are some of the best-preserved and finest examples of Mayan buildings despite the city-state having peaked in the seventh century.

We explore this magnificent site before continuing to the Yucatan Peninsula and the Caribbean town of Campeche (about six hours plus stops).

A Unesco World Heritage site, this colonial town has impressive city walls built to protect it from constant attacks by English and Dutch buccaneers and pirates during the 16^th and 17^th centuries.

Accommodation: Hotel Lopez (or similar)

About 2hr 30min drive from Campeche is our second Mayan site: Uxmal. Quite open, it is in contrast to the jungle ruins of Palenque we visited yesterday. This site, which dates to the late classic era (500CE-800CE) features: the Pyramid of the Magician; the Nunnery Quadrangle, with long, elaborately carved facades; and a ball court, where a traditional ball game was played, sometimes ending in human sacrifice.

Having worked up an appetite, we have lunch at a local Mayan family restaurant. Here we can eat the classic Yucatan dishes pollo pibil and cochinita pibil – slowly cooked chicken and pork. The meat is roasted for about five hours with achiote paste and wrapped in banana leaves.

After lunch, it’s about 1hr 30min drive to Merida. Several of the city buildings, including the cathedral, were built using Mayan stones found on this site and, along with traditional colonial architecture, features 19^th-century houses built in a French style.

Arriving mid-afternoon, we have a walking tour of Merida, returning later to enjoy the main square, which is particularly delightful at night.

Accommodation: Hotel Caribe (or similar)

Our first stop is the traditional Mayan village of Tixkokob, where local families practise the age-old craft of hammock weaving.

After learning how their hammocks are made, we continue to Izamal. Once a Mayan settlement, the town is now formed of yellow-and-white buildings and is known for the 16^th-century Franciscan monastery built on top of the base of a huge Mayan pyramid.

From here, we transfer to Chichen Itza, possibly the best-known and most impressive of all Mayan sites (total drive: about four hours plus stops).

Accommodation: Hotel Chichen Itza or Hotel Puerta Chichen

Our trip ends in style, with a visit to the Mayan temple city: Chichen Itza. Spending last night near to the site means we can get in early before the hordes of daytrippers arriving from the beach resorts.

Chichen Itza served as the political and economic centre of the Mayan civilisation and thrived from around 600CE to 1200CE. It’s home to one of the New Seven Wonders of the World: El Castillo (also known as the Pyramid of Kukulkan), plus temples and a great ball court.

This afternoon, we drive about 3hr 30min to Cancun airport, where the tour ends. If you want to spend more time in this glorious part of the world, speak to your sales representative about extending your stay.

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